Then we're taking another overnight train (check the penultimate photo of my dreadful state at the end of the 35 hour trip from Mumbai - 2 sleepless nights following 3 sleepless nights!) to Chiang Mia, northern Thailand, for 3 blissful nights at another fantastic looking hotel (what's going on EOE?!) which boasts a spa. And has a photo of a swimming pool although there is no actual mention of it. Bring on the pampering, I say! This will mean lots and LOTS of yoga time.
You will see in the photos that I've been progressing nicely with my yoga and ask to be indulged while I show off again. After Chiang Mai (and the River Kwai, I kid you not), we're going to Chiang Rai and then onto the Mekong Delta and over to Laos followed by Cambodia during which the itinerary returns to the original one as posted on the EOE website.
I'm pleased to see that we're not really going into Vietnam as some of you know I went there in 2003 and was completely blown away by the country. I've been looking forward with trepidation about returning because I know that tourism has now exploded over there and the overt commercialism will sadden me. It was the spirit of the people that I loved and admired and I fear that this will have been squashed by the (relatively) easy money and blatant affluence that foreigners bring.
So, without further ado, here are the photos. Enjoy!
Durbar Square, Kathmandu, 23rd July (I think). Taken from a taxi at 7am on the way to the truck park for departure to Bardia National Park. I'm still drunk.
Another shot of Durbar Square. Since I didn't take a single photo for the entire 2 weeks of my Kathmandu stay, I was trying to make up for it at the last minute.
Hangover breakfast on the truck around 11am. Dhal (spicy lentil), Aloo (spicy potato), spicy chickpea stuff and two rotis. Tasty!
Bush camp en-route to Bardia, Nepal. It was a lovely spot (I think I got the order of events mixed up in the story so I'll change this and sort it all out). Well done Jacko!
Negotiating a mudslide en-route to Bardia. Jacko and John are digging out the corner while Vince, Oskar and mud-loving Jane look on.
A river crossing en-route to Bardia. You can just make out the new bridge being built on the right of the photo. Yes, it was an eventful day and what overlanding is really about!
25th July. And finally, some much enjoyed yoga!
Despite the mozzies which were the most ferocious I've encountered. Africa included.
One of my latest moves - the shoulderstand cycle - transition from shoulderstand to the bridge (a backbend).
Followed by a backbend. Excellent for the back, stomach, internal organs, arms and legs. A great all-rounder really.
And the local pets. Nice but dim.
Half spinal twist, bound.
The charming Racy Shade Resort.
Unwinding with a few beers and the local (ish) instruments. I, on one of my regular and frequent (yes, really) health slots, was on lime soda for the night.
Jan, you trouper! Jan is probably my favourite person on the trip. She's game for anything and always tries even if she's frightened or embarrassed. A real gem.
26th July, am. Photo taken from the moving truck on our departure through Bardia. This is one of the charming local settlements including house, store and animal shelter. It had been raining very heavily (still monsoon).
Our first challenge of the day (apart from the 7am departure in the rain that is). Jacko surveys and assesses the situation. Vince, the tiny figure towards the back of the photo in the middle, is mid-thigh in the water and mud. Amazingly, Jacko decided to go for it. This is a 20-tonne truck we're talking about here.
Looking back over the river we'd just crossed. Jacko the LEGEND.
Border crossing. This building is the official Immigration Office. John and Rob await their Nepali exit stamps.
And we're through! The width of this bridge is about 4 inches wider than the truck. Oncomers beware, Jacko is driving like a demon and taking No Prisoners.
28th July, ungodly hour, packing up what we think is our last bush camp. This is my 'team' taking down the toilet tent. John, Mo and Kat.
Final pack up for a 7am departure. For those of you who think I'm on holiday with leisurely lie-ins, I'm Not.
29th July, ungodly hour again. Turns out THIS is our last 'bush camp'. Next to a highway. And a large 30ft well. At least it had a holy man with a cute calf. And blessedly few onlookers. I actually got a bit of sleep that night, even if just a bit.
So here we all are. Back row from left, Jacko (the Legend), John (the pessimistic but sometimes funny Aussie), Kat (the eternal optimist), Mary (often Contary but, at 63, a real star), Mo (the spirited Irish chick), Jan (the Trouper), Rob (always the first to arrive on the action scene), Lorraine (can't get her words out but I reckon she secretly rides a Harley), Lucinda (another star), Moi (the Strange One that no one can quite work out but she does a lot of yoga), Oskar (the witty and proactive Spaniard who could barely speak English at the start of the trip) and Vince (the ex-navy, ex-fireman housewives' dream. Married to the adorable Jan).
And finally we make it to Mumbai of which I have zero photos having morphed into Nocturnal Urban Socialite for the 4 nights we were there. Okay, by the 4th night I had to slow down as I had a cold threatening to attack. The wise words of the yogi who's book I'm reading says that illness should be treated as an unwanted guest. Guests that are not acknowledged do not stay for long. So I've been practicing this method and refusing to acknowledge that the cold is mine - referring to it as the cold that is threatening and guess what...3 nights later and I'm almost well again. Two of those nights having been spent cooped up on a hot train and the third of which was spent having had a few beers in Kolkata. Okay, I confess to having had another 20-hour sleep marathon but, you guessed it, did an hour-and-a-half of yoga yesterday, ate some lentils and, if it wasn't for the dodgy prawns I had last night, I'd be 100%.
Saturday 2nd August - Settling into the train for the 2 nights and a day journey. This space was shared by another 2 chaps and myself but, all in all, everyone was really considerate (for the most part), the food was good (I love Thali - a sort of platter dish with a veg/chicken curry, dhal, rice and 2 chappatis), the samoosas were tasty and the scenery was interesting, when light and accessible.
Herr Jane, the workhorse, in her bunk on her laptop on the train. There wasn't aircon but there were fans.
Oskar with his book and iPod, Kat taking a nap (kat-nap - geddit?). I had a top bunk with an aerial view. We were right in front of the kitchen car so everytime the train slowed (there were about 42 stops along the way), the heat from the kitchen engulfed us to a sometimes-unbearable degree. Moving around from window to bunk-near-the-fan helped. And, if strategically negotiated, the odd doorway could be occupied for a time. 
Don't spread this one around. I haven't slept for 5 nights, haven't showered or changed my clothes for 3 days and am about to enter the frenzied urban melee that is Kolkata at morning rush-hour. Tired, smelly, looking like shit (with a weird hair-aerial) but happy to have had the 'India-overnight-train' experience and looking forward to the next adventure. Forgot to mention 'fighting off a cold'. Bring it on!
A snapshot of suburban Kolkata - looks just like you thought it would hey! The word painted on the building on the right is 'Abandoned'. These are actually quite upmarket slum-dwellings as they're made of brick and have roofs.
That's all for now until next time folks. Namaste! Reporting again soon from Thailand...
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