For folks back home and all those lovely peeps travelling in SE Asia who want to meet up again, here's where I'm going over the next few weeks:
2 nights Hoi An: 27th - 28th August
Transport to Nah Trang: 29th August
3 nights Nah Trang: 30th August -1st September
2 nights Ho Chi Min City: 2nd - 3rd September
1 night in the Mekong Delta: 4th September
1 night back in Ho Chi Min: 5th September
Cross to Cambodia to Pnom Penh for 3 nights: 6th - 8th September
Sien Riep 3 nights: 9th - 11th September
1 night Bangkok: 12th September before heading south to the islands.
If you haven't already seen them, there are scores of updates below, all posted today. Enjoy!
Tuesday, 26 August 2008
Monday, 25 August 2008
Hue, Vietnam 26th August 2008
Arrived in Bangkok 20 days ago and SO much has happened in that time. I've since been to Chiang Mai, Chiang Rai (N. Thailand) and then up the Mekong for 2 days into Laos - Luang Prabang, Vang Viang, Vantianne. Better grab a beer, kick back and relax, I can feel a long one coming on...
6th - 15th August 2008: Bangkok to Luang Prabang
Bangkok was OK. I think the pictures and captions a few entries below tell the story so I won't go into detail about it. The funniest thing was that, when we left to head North to Chiang Mai, Oskar (the funny Spaniard), was missing. We'd received a cryptic phone call saying that he was 2 hours out of Bangkok and that he'd 'meet up with us in Chiang Mai in a couple of days...it's a bizarre story'. So on we went to Chiang Mai. Turns out that he'd been approached, drunk, in the early hours in the street in Bangkok and asked to be in a movie to which he agreed. He'd been carted off, dressed up and, after a heavy night boozing with no sleep, had to do multiple takes of marching in a Portuguese army costume in the blazing sun. Hilarious! The funniest thing was that he was asked to shout 'Fire!' in Portuguese but he can't speak Portuguese so he said it in Spanish...with a Portuguese accent. So watch out for some Thai war movie named after a Thai King with a crazy Spaniard shouting 'Fuevo!' with a Portuguese accent. You couldn't make this stuff up.
Chiang Mai was the perfect place for my planned and much-needed detox. This was done in fine style with a 3-hour skin scrub, all-over body massage and luxurious facial. I also found a great yoga studio with two 2-hour classes given by a Dutch guy called Yens. His main take on it was to merge Eastern philosophy with Western demand to produce a hybrid style which I really enjoyed. This will be my goal when I start to teach.
One of the classes was followed by a lecture on Nidra Yoga which is a type of meditation dealing with sleep and dreams with conscious awareness. The goal is to move between the four states of consciousness between wakefulness and the deepest type of sleep (Cataleptic) with lucidity. Very interesting. I took notes.
Chiang Rai was fairly uneventful save for a lovely day pottering around the town followed by a cycle along the river and a
drunken night in the Teepee Bar with Ra, the crazy (but lovely) Thai owner.
Chiang Rai was followed by 2 days cruising up the Mekong in a slowboat with an overnight stop in between. That's where the photos posted on the 19th August are from (see below). Day one of the slowboat journey was hugely entertaining with two Iranian guys and their interesting instruments - a digereedoo and a giant tambourine with bells. Sela, from Israel, accompanied them with either his guitar or mouth organ. Day two was just as much fun with the same troupe joined by the English contingent of Chris on the trumpet and Ben on the keyboard. Much beer was consumed and many, many photos were taken by an enthralled me.
16th August - Luang Prabang
Luang Prabang, Laos, is a charming (aren't they all!) town with a largely French colonial influence. Much of it was destroyed and rebuilt in the last century so it's freshly colonial and in very good repair. Detox done and rejunevation complete, I headed out for the obligatory Night Out. Once again, I met half a dozen wonderful people, namely Craig and Sam from England, Jess and Fi from Ireland and Nicko from New Columbia (a French Polynesian island off the Australian coast near Brisbane) among others. We also bumped into Sophie (Newcastle) who'd I'd met earlier on the boat. Craig and I managed to lose the others between the vegetarian street-side restaurant selling cheap Beerlao and the 'Lao Lao Bar' so we cracked open a bottle of Cabernet Sauvignon and put the world to rights before heading off to the bowling alley. This is not some funky-named bar but an actual tenpin bowling alley being the only place to sell alchohol after 11:30pm. Luang Prabang has strict curfew laws to preseve its culture (rightly so) and closes down just before midnight. Here we met up with 'the Irish lads' and had the craic.
17th August 2008: Luang Prabang
After about 2 hours' sleep between 5am and 7am I was rudely and unecessarily awakened by a deafening drilling coming from the construction site across the road. On a Bloody Sunday! I couldn't stand it, even with my earplugs in, so Oskar and I (we were sharing a room) headed out. I'm actually quite glad about the rude awakening as I ended up having a full and enjoyable cultural day which I probably otherwise wouldn't have had. I visited the Palace which is now a museum and, not being a 'museumy' sort of person, was surprised to find that I really enjoyed it. There was a 'Floating Monks' photographic exhibition on there which was enchanting. Followed by coffee with Craig where Chris and Alice joined us.
I then spent an increasingly painful 2 hours at the Internet cafe minimising my millions of photos from the longboat trip to post and email to various friends before there was a powercut. Damn! Time Out. A late lunch and an hours' snooze before an hour of yoga in preparation for another nocturnal adventure. The evening started off haltingly with dinner at the wrong restaurant (it was cleverly named similarly to the one in the Lonely Planet) which was a long-winded affair but the food, when it arrived, was tasty. I had an early night that night which was just as well as the next day was action packed and the fun went on well into a (very) late night!
18th August, Kuang Si Waterfall, Luang Prabang (photos to follow)
Had a great day at the Kuang Si waterfall about 40 minutes drive from Luang Prabang. My expectations were low and the delivery would've been beyond my expectations even if they were high. The photos here tell the story better than my dialogue could so I'll leave it to them. Sadly however, I've lost my camera cable (that's another story) so I'll have to wait until I've procured a replacement before I can show you how much fun was had.
In the evening Oskar and I headed out along the river where we had a couple of tots of the infamous 'snake' wine. This is a local brew bottled with a collection of snakes. Lethal stuff I tell ya and not for the faint-hearted. We then had a few bevvies at the vegetarian roadside cafe before heading down to the 'Lao Lao Bar'. En-route we swept up Paul (Dutch) and Lucinda (American) from the boat trip, Fi and Jess (Irish) and Nicko (French Polynesian). By the way, you don't need to remember all these names, they're really just for my recollection in the future.
The 'Lao Lao Bar' turned out to be a delightfully welcoming garden strung with fairy lights and serving a decent bottle of wine which Nicko and I shared. Needless to say, the inevitable 11:30pm rolled round and we all got chucked out and headed, you guessed it, to the bowling alley. Crikey, this really IS an epic! Well, a fun night was had by all and I probably did more drinking and socialising than bowling but then those are my priorities!
19th - 21st August 2008: Vang Viang - Tubing (photos to follow)
We were scheduled to travel for 6 hours by bus to arrive at Vang Viang 10:30pm. Well, after a 2-hour delay (which I actually enjoyed by watching a video called Evans Almighty with a beer and a tasty papaya salad) we headed off. At 1:30am the road became impassable by a coach stuck in the mudslide ahead of us. Luckily my seat was quite comfy and I'd gotten some sleep. So, after a 12-hour journey, we arrived in Vang Viang around 7am where I caught a few hours sleep and by 1:30pm was on the river, tubing. 'Tubing' is a euphemism for floating a hundred yards down the river before being roped into a thumping bar on a wooden platform with either a swing, zipline (flying fox) or high-dive platform over the river. Beer, sunshine, water, showing-off apparatus. And an audience. I was in HEAVEN!
The next bar down had mud-wrestling which was actually a volleyball 'court'...argh! I wish I had the means to upload some photos...it was terrific. And terrifically muddy! I'll let the photos do the talking when available. Basically, hoardes of merry, gorgeous men (and a few women) throwing themselves around in the knee-deep mud, diving for the ball (and sometimes on each other). Fantastic! Naturally I had to show off (again!) and managed to get myself a cut under my foot which subsequently got infected and I'm currently nursing back to health. The day ended relatively early as I was so smashed by the end of the tubing (I think I unwittingly smoked an opium joint thinking it was just grass) that I couldn't work out if my watch meant 7:30pm or 7:30am (it was 7:30pm). Thinking back, I shouldn't have been that disoriented as I was carefully regulating my alcohol intake and had a bottle of water for every beer throughout the day. I've subsequently read warnings in the guidebook about opium cigarettes and that they get handed out to unsuspecting travellers. Luckily, I had enough wits about me (I have this 6th sense of knowing when I'm not quite safe, regardless of how drunk/stoned I might be) to get myself straight back to the hotel and into bed where I stayed for 12 hours.
I emerged the next morning, aching, bruised behind the knees (from hanging by them) and with rope burns on my feet (by swinging from them). 'No', I told myself. I am NOT tubing today.
By 11am I was back on the river. 'Well', I thought 'I'll just take it easy on the beers and not swing.'
By midday I had cracked open my first beer and had had my first swing. It was onwards and upwards from then on. Hooray! And ANOTHER fantastic day having fun, taking pictures, chatting, flirting, showing off and drinking. This time the night lasted a bit longer (I avoided any forms of joints and drinks other than beer) and ended in Jaidee's Bar where I lost my bag containing my camera (gutted - but more about that later), priceless notebook of email addresses and notes, Oakley's and a few other bits 'n pieces. I had a great time though and it all got very messy (but in a good way!) towards the end.
I woke up around 8:30am the next morning panicking about where I'd left my bag. More so because we were scheduled to catch the bus to Vientianne at 10am. Shit! I hastily packed my backpack and asked Jane to make sure it got to Vientianne without me. I was going to stay and track down my bag as I had a hunch I'd left it at Jaidee's. No one at Jaidee's could understand me so, with a heavy heart, I plonked myself down at a restaurant and ordered a commiserating fry-up.
22nd August : Vang Viang - Motorbikes and caves
Well, I wasn't bereft for long as Ollie (English guy I'd befriended the day before) appeared and announced that he'd hired a moped for the day. So we went for a ride. Then we bumped into Andre (South African from Durban) who said he was thinking of kayaking to Vientianne the next day. Well, Vientianne was exactly where I needed to be the next day and kayaking sounded a helluva lot more fun than the bus. While we were scouting the kayak shops, Zander (from New York) appeared and agreed to join us on the following day's kayaking trip. This was promptly booked, solving my problem of how to catch up with my tour group, and leaving the rest of the day for some fun. Yes, MORE fun! Ollie was going to abandon his moped and cycle with another group to some caves and lagoon. Zander was going to hire a moped and drive to said caves leaving me the choice of either joining Ollie with the cycling group or borrowing Ollie's moped and going with Zander. I chose the latter. And I'm bloody glad I did.
Zander and I got on really well and had a great time heading for the hills at speed. We passed the cycling group along the way looking sweaty and tired. The lagoon was gorgeous, nestled at the foot of a hill in the dappled shade of an overhanging tree. We dived in (well, I gracelessly bumped in on my ass while Zander dived elegantly in) and it was heavenly after the hot drive. Before long, the cycling group arrived and joined us. Zander and Jim (the boxer) did some yoga before we headed for the cave. The cave (like the watefalls) turned out to be MUCH better than expected. We all got to a point in the cave where the group stalled but I could see that it went back further, into the dark, and I wanted to go on. Zander did too so we borrowed a torch and the two of us continued into the depths. Right at the back of the cave (which really was hugely cavernous), down a short, steep wall, was a small, dark pool. 'Are you going in or giving light?' asked Zander. 'I'll give light while you go in and await your verdict.' I replied.
We're talking about a steep pool at the back of a deep cave in the pitch black. There may be creatures. I was cautious. I held the torch. And Zander, much to his credit, had the balls to brave it and go in.
Then he disappeard under the dark water without a ripple or a bubble. My heart started to pound and my panic started to rise. I wriggled closer to the edge and peered harder. Then he came up. Phew! I decided to go in and (I'm embarrassed to report) was a bit of a girl about the whole thing. Just a bit. But Zander was the perfect gentleman and coaxed me in gently while I clung to his arm like...well, like a girl. Which lets face it, I am. So that was a life-affirming experience and got my circulation going!
After clambering out of the damp cave in our flip-flops, we climbed back down to the others where we had a swim, a bite to eat and a laugh before heading off on our bikes to get back before dark. Zander and I took a detour where I stopped the bike and had 'a moment'. I was overwhelmed by the beauty around us, the essence (Zander's words) of the great day warm within me, and a sense of enormous wellbeing (Oasis' words). Don't tell anyone but I may have cried. Just a little. 'THIS is my LIFE', I breathed. 'I am SO lucky'.
That night we all met for a very tasty Indian dinner and more great conversation before heading off for a massage. I, being a bit sunburned and needing to find my lost bag, skipped the massage and headed back to Jaidees to enquire about my bag. Dan, the Irish barman was there. After greeting him I asked about my bag. 'Aye, was it a red bag?' He asked. My heart gave a little leap (I'd been intermittently mourning my lost photos and notes all day) while he reached behind him and produced - TA DA - my bag! 'F*ck! I am so lucky', I thought for the umpteenth time that day. Well, all the excitement had finally caught up with me so I headed to my guesthouse (I'd organised the same one that Zander was staying in, earlier that day) just as a phenomenal electrical storm was breaking. The guesthouse had a gorgeous elevated deck over the river with a view to the hills across the valley (I promise you I am not making this up!) where I parked myself to watch the storm. It was exhilarating. The lightning was spectacular and the thunder was earth-shattering. So much so that I couldn't contain my excitement alone, I had to wake Remko (Dutch guy) to come and share the show. After it was over, I climbed, tired and happy, into bed.
23rd August : Kayaking to Vientianne
The next morning I awoke restlessly at 6:30am and headed out onto the deck with my silk liner and a pillow. Just as I nestled down, a heavy shower started and the rain on the tin roof (such a cliche, I know!) lulled me back to sleep. At about 9am there was a bit of a panic as Ollie, who'd lent me the moped the day before, appeared and, well, panicked, about the location of the moped as the moped shop had his passport and was threatening him with a $600 fee if he couldn't return the bike. I calmed him down (I think), grabbed my things and took him to where I'd left the moped. It was gone.
After an outwardly-calm but inwardly-concerned misunderstood exchange with a couple of local passers-by, I dashed under the stairwell of the nearest guesthouse and there, whew! was the moped. Ollie nearly cried with relief. He ran me over to the kayaking place in time to grab a bite to eat before departing on the kayaking trip to Vientianne.
The kayaking was awesome (I'm running out of expletives!) and the rapids were fierce. Despite partnering with the guide, we flipped on the first one and it was pretty hairy. The second rapid saw us lose a kayak and two people requiring a bit of a rescue operation with us (being with the guide) paddling back upstream to the rescue. We had a well-earned and very tasty barbeque lunch followed by a playful afternoon in rapid-less water, swimming and mucking about. The day ended with us riding on to Vientienne hanging out (literally) of the back of a large tuk-tuk with a beer. Bloody marvellous!
Just as we were milling about at the drop-off point in Vientianne, wondering on the whereabouts of various guesthouse, up walks Jacko and Jane (Jacko (the EOE truck driver) had rejoined the group) who pointed across the road to the guesthouse where the group were staying. Reeesult! Lucky Lynda Strikes Again! And it's beer o'clock. We agreed to meet that evening for dinner but only Alex and Lee (Scottish) turned up. We had a great evening nonetheless with good food followed by cold beers where we bumped into some of the Irish guys from the tubing. I got to bed for a few hours before the early departure to the bus for Vietnam.
24th - 26th August (Whew! Nearly up to date. And it's only taken...er...FIVE hours!)
So we spent the next two days on various buses, overnighting at a nondescript place called Savanakhat in Laos before crossing the border (never fun) into Vietnam yesterday. I've been feeling slightly under par as the infection from my foot cut took hold and the effects of the general sleep-deprivation and post-excitement slump set in. Hence taking time out today to go no further than 200 yards from the guesthouse and catch up on my blogging.
Well, as the Loony Tunes Buggs Bunny will tell ya...'That's all Folks!'
6th - 15th August 2008: Bangkok to Luang Prabang
Bangkok was OK. I think the pictures and captions a few entries below tell the story so I won't go into detail about it. The funniest thing was that, when we left to head North to Chiang Mai, Oskar (the funny Spaniard), was missing. We'd received a cryptic phone call saying that he was 2 hours out of Bangkok and that he'd 'meet up with us in Chiang Mai in a couple of days...it's a bizarre story'. So on we went to Chiang Mai. Turns out that he'd been approached, drunk, in the early hours in the street in Bangkok and asked to be in a movie to which he agreed. He'd been carted off, dressed up and, after a heavy night boozing with no sleep, had to do multiple takes of marching in a Portuguese army costume in the blazing sun. Hilarious! The funniest thing was that he was asked to shout 'Fire!' in Portuguese but he can't speak Portuguese so he said it in Spanish...with a Portuguese accent. So watch out for some Thai war movie named after a Thai King with a crazy Spaniard shouting 'Fuevo!' with a Portuguese accent. You couldn't make this stuff up.
Chiang Mai was the perfect place for my planned and much-needed detox. This was done in fine style with a 3-hour skin scrub, all-over body massage and luxurious facial. I also found a great yoga studio with two 2-hour classes given by a Dutch guy called Yens. His main take on it was to merge Eastern philosophy with Western demand to produce a hybrid style which I really enjoyed. This will be my goal when I start to teach.
One of the classes was followed by a lecture on Nidra Yoga which is a type of meditation dealing with sleep and dreams with conscious awareness. The goal is to move between the four states of consciousness between wakefulness and the deepest type of sleep (Cataleptic) with lucidity. Very interesting. I took notes.
Chiang Rai was fairly uneventful save for a lovely day pottering around the town followed by a cycle along the river and a
drunken night in the Teepee Bar with Ra, the crazy (but lovely) Thai owner.
Chiang Rai was followed by 2 days cruising up the Mekong in a slowboat with an overnight stop in between. That's where the photos posted on the 19th August are from (see below). Day one of the slowboat journey was hugely entertaining with two Iranian guys and their interesting instruments - a digereedoo and a giant tambourine with bells. Sela, from Israel, accompanied them with either his guitar or mouth organ. Day two was just as much fun with the same troupe joined by the English contingent of Chris on the trumpet and Ben on the keyboard. Much beer was consumed and many, many photos were taken by an enthralled me.
16th August - Luang Prabang
Luang Prabang, Laos, is a charming (aren't they all!) town with a largely French colonial influence. Much of it was destroyed and rebuilt in the last century so it's freshly colonial and in very good repair. Detox done and rejunevation complete, I headed out for the obligatory Night Out. Once again, I met half a dozen wonderful people, namely Craig and Sam from England, Jess and Fi from Ireland and Nicko from New Columbia (a French Polynesian island off the Australian coast near Brisbane) among others. We also bumped into Sophie (Newcastle) who'd I'd met earlier on the boat. Craig and I managed to lose the others between the vegetarian street-side restaurant selling cheap Beerlao and the 'Lao Lao Bar' so we cracked open a bottle of Cabernet Sauvignon and put the world to rights before heading off to the bowling alley. This is not some funky-named bar but an actual tenpin bowling alley being the only place to sell alchohol after 11:30pm. Luang Prabang has strict curfew laws to preseve its culture (rightly so) and closes down just before midnight. Here we met up with 'the Irish lads' and had the craic.
17th August 2008: Luang Prabang
After about 2 hours' sleep between 5am and 7am I was rudely and unecessarily awakened by a deafening drilling coming from the construction site across the road. On a Bloody Sunday! I couldn't stand it, even with my earplugs in, so Oskar and I (we were sharing a room) headed out. I'm actually quite glad about the rude awakening as I ended up having a full and enjoyable cultural day which I probably otherwise wouldn't have had. I visited the Palace which is now a museum and, not being a 'museumy' sort of person, was surprised to find that I really enjoyed it. There was a 'Floating Monks' photographic exhibition on there which was enchanting. Followed by coffee with Craig where Chris and Alice joined us.
I then spent an increasingly painful 2 hours at the Internet cafe minimising my millions of photos from the longboat trip to post and email to various friends before there was a powercut. Damn! Time Out. A late lunch and an hours' snooze before an hour of yoga in preparation for another nocturnal adventure. The evening started off haltingly with dinner at the wrong restaurant (it was cleverly named similarly to the one in the Lonely Planet) which was a long-winded affair but the food, when it arrived, was tasty. I had an early night that night which was just as well as the next day was action packed and the fun went on well into a (very) late night!
18th August, Kuang Si Waterfall, Luang Prabang (photos to follow)
Had a great day at the Kuang Si waterfall about 40 minutes drive from Luang Prabang. My expectations were low and the delivery would've been beyond my expectations even if they were high. The photos here tell the story better than my dialogue could so I'll leave it to them. Sadly however, I've lost my camera cable (that's another story) so I'll have to wait until I've procured a replacement before I can show you how much fun was had.
In the evening Oskar and I headed out along the river where we had a couple of tots of the infamous 'snake' wine. This is a local brew bottled with a collection of snakes. Lethal stuff I tell ya and not for the faint-hearted. We then had a few bevvies at the vegetarian roadside cafe before heading down to the 'Lao Lao Bar'. En-route we swept up Paul (Dutch) and Lucinda (American) from the boat trip, Fi and Jess (Irish) and Nicko (French Polynesian). By the way, you don't need to remember all these names, they're really just for my recollection in the future.
The 'Lao Lao Bar' turned out to be a delightfully welcoming garden strung with fairy lights and serving a decent bottle of wine which Nicko and I shared. Needless to say, the inevitable 11:30pm rolled round and we all got chucked out and headed, you guessed it, to the bowling alley. Crikey, this really IS an epic! Well, a fun night was had by all and I probably did more drinking and socialising than bowling but then those are my priorities!
19th - 21st August 2008: Vang Viang - Tubing (photos to follow)
We were scheduled to travel for 6 hours by bus to arrive at Vang Viang 10:30pm. Well, after a 2-hour delay (which I actually enjoyed by watching a video called Evans Almighty with a beer and a tasty papaya salad) we headed off. At 1:30am the road became impassable by a coach stuck in the mudslide ahead of us. Luckily my seat was quite comfy and I'd gotten some sleep. So, after a 12-hour journey, we arrived in Vang Viang around 7am where I caught a few hours sleep and by 1:30pm was on the river, tubing. 'Tubing' is a euphemism for floating a hundred yards down the river before being roped into a thumping bar on a wooden platform with either a swing, zipline (flying fox) or high-dive platform over the river. Beer, sunshine, water, showing-off apparatus. And an audience. I was in HEAVEN!
The next bar down had mud-wrestling which was actually a volleyball 'court'...argh! I wish I had the means to upload some photos...it was terrific. And terrifically muddy! I'll let the photos do the talking when available. Basically, hoardes of merry, gorgeous men (and a few women) throwing themselves around in the knee-deep mud, diving for the ball (and sometimes on each other). Fantastic! Naturally I had to show off (again!) and managed to get myself a cut under my foot which subsequently got infected and I'm currently nursing back to health. The day ended relatively early as I was so smashed by the end of the tubing (I think I unwittingly smoked an opium joint thinking it was just grass) that I couldn't work out if my watch meant 7:30pm or 7:30am (it was 7:30pm). Thinking back, I shouldn't have been that disoriented as I was carefully regulating my alcohol intake and had a bottle of water for every beer throughout the day. I've subsequently read warnings in the guidebook about opium cigarettes and that they get handed out to unsuspecting travellers. Luckily, I had enough wits about me (I have this 6th sense of knowing when I'm not quite safe, regardless of how drunk/stoned I might be) to get myself straight back to the hotel and into bed where I stayed for 12 hours.
I emerged the next morning, aching, bruised behind the knees (from hanging by them) and with rope burns on my feet (by swinging from them). 'No', I told myself. I am NOT tubing today.
By 11am I was back on the river. 'Well', I thought 'I'll just take it easy on the beers and not swing.'
By midday I had cracked open my first beer and had had my first swing. It was onwards and upwards from then on. Hooray! And ANOTHER fantastic day having fun, taking pictures, chatting, flirting, showing off and drinking. This time the night lasted a bit longer (I avoided any forms of joints and drinks other than beer) and ended in Jaidee's Bar where I lost my bag containing my camera (gutted - but more about that later), priceless notebook of email addresses and notes, Oakley's and a few other bits 'n pieces. I had a great time though and it all got very messy (but in a good way!) towards the end.
I woke up around 8:30am the next morning panicking about where I'd left my bag. More so because we were scheduled to catch the bus to Vientianne at 10am. Shit! I hastily packed my backpack and asked Jane to make sure it got to Vientianne without me. I was going to stay and track down my bag as I had a hunch I'd left it at Jaidee's. No one at Jaidee's could understand me so, with a heavy heart, I plonked myself down at a restaurant and ordered a commiserating fry-up.
22nd August : Vang Viang - Motorbikes and caves
Well, I wasn't bereft for long as Ollie (English guy I'd befriended the day before) appeared and announced that he'd hired a moped for the day. So we went for a ride. Then we bumped into Andre (South African from Durban) who said he was thinking of kayaking to Vientianne the next day. Well, Vientianne was exactly where I needed to be the next day and kayaking sounded a helluva lot more fun than the bus. While we were scouting the kayak shops, Zander (from New York) appeared and agreed to join us on the following day's kayaking trip. This was promptly booked, solving my problem of how to catch up with my tour group, and leaving the rest of the day for some fun. Yes, MORE fun! Ollie was going to abandon his moped and cycle with another group to some caves and lagoon. Zander was going to hire a moped and drive to said caves leaving me the choice of either joining Ollie with the cycling group or borrowing Ollie's moped and going with Zander. I chose the latter. And I'm bloody glad I did.
Zander and I got on really well and had a great time heading for the hills at speed. We passed the cycling group along the way looking sweaty and tired. The lagoon was gorgeous, nestled at the foot of a hill in the dappled shade of an overhanging tree. We dived in (well, I gracelessly bumped in on my ass while Zander dived elegantly in) and it was heavenly after the hot drive. Before long, the cycling group arrived and joined us. Zander and Jim (the boxer) did some yoga before we headed for the cave. The cave (like the watefalls) turned out to be MUCH better than expected. We all got to a point in the cave where the group stalled but I could see that it went back further, into the dark, and I wanted to go on. Zander did too so we borrowed a torch and the two of us continued into the depths. Right at the back of the cave (which really was hugely cavernous), down a short, steep wall, was a small, dark pool. 'Are you going in or giving light?' asked Zander. 'I'll give light while you go in and await your verdict.' I replied.
We're talking about a steep pool at the back of a deep cave in the pitch black. There may be creatures. I was cautious. I held the torch. And Zander, much to his credit, had the balls to brave it and go in.
Then he disappeard under the dark water without a ripple or a bubble. My heart started to pound and my panic started to rise. I wriggled closer to the edge and peered harder. Then he came up. Phew! I decided to go in and (I'm embarrassed to report) was a bit of a girl about the whole thing. Just a bit. But Zander was the perfect gentleman and coaxed me in gently while I clung to his arm like...well, like a girl. Which lets face it, I am. So that was a life-affirming experience and got my circulation going!
After clambering out of the damp cave in our flip-flops, we climbed back down to the others where we had a swim, a bite to eat and a laugh before heading off on our bikes to get back before dark. Zander and I took a detour where I stopped the bike and had 'a moment'. I was overwhelmed by the beauty around us, the essence (Zander's words) of the great day warm within me, and a sense of enormous wellbeing (Oasis' words). Don't tell anyone but I may have cried. Just a little. 'THIS is my LIFE', I breathed. 'I am SO lucky'.
That night we all met for a very tasty Indian dinner and more great conversation before heading off for a massage. I, being a bit sunburned and needing to find my lost bag, skipped the massage and headed back to Jaidees to enquire about my bag. Dan, the Irish barman was there. After greeting him I asked about my bag. 'Aye, was it a red bag?' He asked. My heart gave a little leap (I'd been intermittently mourning my lost photos and notes all day) while he reached behind him and produced - TA DA - my bag! 'F*ck! I am so lucky', I thought for the umpteenth time that day. Well, all the excitement had finally caught up with me so I headed to my guesthouse (I'd organised the same one that Zander was staying in, earlier that day) just as a phenomenal electrical storm was breaking. The guesthouse had a gorgeous elevated deck over the river with a view to the hills across the valley (I promise you I am not making this up!) where I parked myself to watch the storm. It was exhilarating. The lightning was spectacular and the thunder was earth-shattering. So much so that I couldn't contain my excitement alone, I had to wake Remko (Dutch guy) to come and share the show. After it was over, I climbed, tired and happy, into bed.
23rd August : Kayaking to Vientianne
The next morning I awoke restlessly at 6:30am and headed out onto the deck with my silk liner and a pillow. Just as I nestled down, a heavy shower started and the rain on the tin roof (such a cliche, I know!) lulled me back to sleep. At about 9am there was a bit of a panic as Ollie, who'd lent me the moped the day before, appeared and, well, panicked, about the location of the moped as the moped shop had his passport and was threatening him with a $600 fee if he couldn't return the bike. I calmed him down (I think), grabbed my things and took him to where I'd left the moped. It was gone.
After an outwardly-calm but inwardly-concerned misunderstood exchange with a couple of local passers-by, I dashed under the stairwell of the nearest guesthouse and there, whew! was the moped. Ollie nearly cried with relief. He ran me over to the kayaking place in time to grab a bite to eat before departing on the kayaking trip to Vientianne.
The kayaking was awesome (I'm running out of expletives!) and the rapids were fierce. Despite partnering with the guide, we flipped on the first one and it was pretty hairy. The second rapid saw us lose a kayak and two people requiring a bit of a rescue operation with us (being with the guide) paddling back upstream to the rescue. We had a well-earned and very tasty barbeque lunch followed by a playful afternoon in rapid-less water, swimming and mucking about. The day ended with us riding on to Vientienne hanging out (literally) of the back of a large tuk-tuk with a beer. Bloody marvellous!
Just as we were milling about at the drop-off point in Vientianne, wondering on the whereabouts of various guesthouse, up walks Jacko and Jane (Jacko (the EOE truck driver) had rejoined the group) who pointed across the road to the guesthouse where the group were staying. Reeesult! Lucky Lynda Strikes Again! And it's beer o'clock. We agreed to meet that evening for dinner but only Alex and Lee (Scottish) turned up. We had a great evening nonetheless with good food followed by cold beers where we bumped into some of the Irish guys from the tubing. I got to bed for a few hours before the early departure to the bus for Vietnam.
24th - 26th August (Whew! Nearly up to date. And it's only taken...er...FIVE hours!)
So we spent the next two days on various buses, overnighting at a nondescript place called Savanakhat in Laos before crossing the border (never fun) into Vietnam yesterday. I've been feeling slightly under par as the infection from my foot cut took hold and the effects of the general sleep-deprivation and post-excitement slump set in. Hence taking time out today to go no further than 200 yards from the guesthouse and catch up on my blogging.
Well, as the Loony Tunes Buggs Bunny will tell ya...'That's all Folks!'
Part II: Kolkata, India from 5th August (backlog)
Oh My God...where to start! An UNBELIEVABLE amount of action and fun has taken place since I last wrote. I'd better start with a backlog blog that I wrote ages ago. It'll be really out of date, but it's been written and I've been carrying it around with me until I had the opportunity to upload it and, well, today's the day. Then I'll start with the in-between stuff that's been happening...namely Northern Thailand and then Laos. Laos has been without a doubt THE most fantastic part of this trip, a definite highlight-after-highlight affair. Yup, better than I ever could've imagined it would be...ALL the ingredients for maximum enjoyment. Water, Sun, Swings, Beer, GORGEOUS people, Fantastic conversation, Stimulating action, Divine massages....I could go on. And probably will but without further ado, here's part II (eyes go dreamy as the recollection from weeks ago, a lifetime ago, swims into focus)...Actually, I've just re-read it and it's very verbose so I'll forgive you for skimming it, I must've been really tired when I wrote it.
Before moving on o the Thai leg of the journal, let me recount the exciting (well, to me anyway) last night in Kolkata, 5th August 2008…
As you may recall, I was fighting off an impending cold after the overnight train from Mumbai and eagerly needing to do some yoga – contemplating the wisdom of doing both concurrently, a mental gymnastics for someone well under healthy par. Knowing that I needed some space both mentally (for myself) and physically (for my yoga), I approached Jane on the train and made my humble request that, should there be an uneven number and a one-to-a-room equation, I have the room to myself to which she agreed and even suggested an upgrade, should I require an en-suite. Of course, this being India (no disrespect), things were not as we had anticipated and the hotel was full. The alternative was to share room in the obviously poorer cousin accommodation across the road or to go down the road to a neighbouring hotel to share a room with 4 others. Jane’s gaze, while canvassing for the 5th person to ‘share the room with 4 others’, fell uncomfortably on me to which I responded that I was ‘hoping to have a bit of space’. Clearly she’d forgotten our earlier conversation and I have since learned that all dialogue with Jane upon woken is simply not recorded or recalled. Anyway, I’m glad I stood my ground, even if tainted by a cloud of guilt and followed by resentful whisperings, as I bloody needed My Space. I was sharing with Kat in a charming room (adjoined by a balcony which appeared to be an en-suite) with two double beds, one of which was split and concave on one half, never mind, I just slept near the wall. Everyone else went out while I rolled out my mat and began the business of maintaining my body and reinstating my sanity, yes, yoga, for a couple of hours. It was Good!
The shower following my practice was interesting. The 3 shower rooms contained, as is common, the toilet and a basin. The basins having been mysteriously removed between our arrival and the others’ return from their outing. The plaster was literally falling off the walls and the ‘drain’ was a square hole in one corner of the floor (I have it on good advice that this is where the rats emerge on their nightly forays). My spirits had somewhat waned (remember I hadn’t slept for days) but I gave myself a mental jab and thought that if I closed my eyes and simply enjoyed the falling water which, thank God, was of a decent volume, I could imagine myself anywhere and chose, through a tired lack of imagination, the Maldives as I’d imagined it would be. It was only a minor jolt upon reopening the eyes and had achieved the desire effect. It is at this point that I shall introduce Ulli.
Ulli and I were Meant to Meet. It happened in Kathmandu one night as I was darting around the streets, looking for action, not wanting to go home yet. However, I’d called it a night and was heading home, in the rain, late one night. As I rounded the corner to The Courtyard (hotel), I nearly collided with a tall dark figure emerging swiftly from the opposite direction. As we passed each other, a current passed between us and ten feet apart we both stopped, swiveled and looked directly at each other with recognition. And did a comedy double-take. Nah, go home, my commonsense told me. Aha, I know where he’s headed, my intuition said. So I took myself home and shed my damp clothes whereupon I checked in with myself and realized that I didn’t want to go to bed. It’s very refreshing running home in the rain. And that I wanted to go and meet Ulli so I did. He wasn’t there. I sat down and ordered a bottle of wine (the band was entertaining) and settled in. There was a movement to my left, someone sat down and, after a time, I invited him to join me with a little nod of the head. So he did.
Two evenings later, he dropped by The Courtyard to say that he was on his way to dinner with a friend and I explained that I was leaving at 7am the next morning. I invited him to stay for a cup of tea before going on and said that I’d be in the library (yes, there really was a library) and that if he dropped by on his way home, he may see me there, unless I’d gone to bed. I had every intention of an early night, no, really.
Needless to say, the early night didn’t happen. Lots of red wine, stimulating conversation and excellent company happened instead. And I made it out by 6:30am the following morning, leaving scarcely a trail or a Namaste in my wake.
Ulli knew that I was headed for Mumbai and I knew he was headed for Pondicherry. Fast forward past Mumbai to my arrival in Kolkata…cue the shared room, falling plaster in the shower/toilet (did I mention the nesting pigeons) and my yoga unwind after the overnight train from Mumbai. Whereupon I ventured out to the Internet café, after a 5pm ‘breakfast’ of mueslie-fruit-yoghurt, to find an email from Ulli saying that he was in Kolkata and awaiting a message from me. The email was 2 days old and gave no other information. I sent off a volley of positive replies and got some much-needed sleep. The next day was spent mostly sleeping (I had a lot of catching up to do) and a bit of a venture involving The Zurich, NetFreaks and the tailor (yes, an actual tailor). Kat, meanwhile had returned from her outing to announce that she’d seen that ‘German guy from Kathmandu in Mother Theresa’s’. C’est la Vie.
So that night I’d prepared for another early night for an early morning departure and was settling down with a notebook around 9.30pm when there was a knock at the door. Slightly agitated as a) I’d given up on Ulli finding me and b) the hotel staff kept wanting things, I answered to the concierge (posh word for the security guard) who indicated around the door where a slightly longer peer revealed Ulli with his backpack. ‘Ulli! Oh my God, come in!’ So he did, the crazy man. We agreed to meet later to go and find some food but the only place that I knew would be open at that late hour (nearly midnight by this time) was an upmarket hotel called The Park. Neither of us was comfortable so we left and combed the deserted streets in search of food. A charming young man with a gold earring ushered us through an alleyway and into a local eatery where we smiled and feasted on aloo, dhal and chapattis. It was lovely!
Ulli kindly met me early the next morning to see me off to the airport (flying from Kolkata to Bangkok) and I hope our paths will cross again someday soon.
Before moving on o the Thai leg of the journal, let me recount the exciting (well, to me anyway) last night in Kolkata, 5th August 2008…
As you may recall, I was fighting off an impending cold after the overnight train from Mumbai and eagerly needing to do some yoga – contemplating the wisdom of doing both concurrently, a mental gymnastics for someone well under healthy par. Knowing that I needed some space both mentally (for myself) and physically (for my yoga), I approached Jane on the train and made my humble request that, should there be an uneven number and a one-to-a-room equation, I have the room to myself to which she agreed and even suggested an upgrade, should I require an en-suite. Of course, this being India (no disrespect), things were not as we had anticipated and the hotel was full. The alternative was to share room in the obviously poorer cousin accommodation across the road or to go down the road to a neighbouring hotel to share a room with 4 others. Jane’s gaze, while canvassing for the 5th person to ‘share the room with 4 others’, fell uncomfortably on me to which I responded that I was ‘hoping to have a bit of space’. Clearly she’d forgotten our earlier conversation and I have since learned that all dialogue with Jane upon woken is simply not recorded or recalled. Anyway, I’m glad I stood my ground, even if tainted by a cloud of guilt and followed by resentful whisperings, as I bloody needed My Space. I was sharing with Kat in a charming room (adjoined by a balcony which appeared to be an en-suite) with two double beds, one of which was split and concave on one half, never mind, I just slept near the wall. Everyone else went out while I rolled out my mat and began the business of maintaining my body and reinstating my sanity, yes, yoga, for a couple of hours. It was Good!
The shower following my practice was interesting. The 3 shower rooms contained, as is common, the toilet and a basin. The basins having been mysteriously removed between our arrival and the others’ return from their outing. The plaster was literally falling off the walls and the ‘drain’ was a square hole in one corner of the floor (I have it on good advice that this is where the rats emerge on their nightly forays). My spirits had somewhat waned (remember I hadn’t slept for days) but I gave myself a mental jab and thought that if I closed my eyes and simply enjoyed the falling water which, thank God, was of a decent volume, I could imagine myself anywhere and chose, through a tired lack of imagination, the Maldives as I’d imagined it would be. It was only a minor jolt upon reopening the eyes and had achieved the desire effect. It is at this point that I shall introduce Ulli.
Ulli and I were Meant to Meet. It happened in Kathmandu one night as I was darting around the streets, looking for action, not wanting to go home yet. However, I’d called it a night and was heading home, in the rain, late one night. As I rounded the corner to The Courtyard (hotel), I nearly collided with a tall dark figure emerging swiftly from the opposite direction. As we passed each other, a current passed between us and ten feet apart we both stopped, swiveled and looked directly at each other with recognition. And did a comedy double-take. Nah, go home, my commonsense told me. Aha, I know where he’s headed, my intuition said. So I took myself home and shed my damp clothes whereupon I checked in with myself and realized that I didn’t want to go to bed. It’s very refreshing running home in the rain. And that I wanted to go and meet Ulli so I did. He wasn’t there. I sat down and ordered a bottle of wine (the band was entertaining) and settled in. There was a movement to my left, someone sat down and, after a time, I invited him to join me with a little nod of the head. So he did.
Two evenings later, he dropped by The Courtyard to say that he was on his way to dinner with a friend and I explained that I was leaving at 7am the next morning. I invited him to stay for a cup of tea before going on and said that I’d be in the library (yes, there really was a library) and that if he dropped by on his way home, he may see me there, unless I’d gone to bed. I had every intention of an early night, no, really.
Needless to say, the early night didn’t happen. Lots of red wine, stimulating conversation and excellent company happened instead. And I made it out by 6:30am the following morning, leaving scarcely a trail or a Namaste in my wake.
Ulli knew that I was headed for Mumbai and I knew he was headed for Pondicherry. Fast forward past Mumbai to my arrival in Kolkata…cue the shared room, falling plaster in the shower/toilet (did I mention the nesting pigeons) and my yoga unwind after the overnight train from Mumbai. Whereupon I ventured out to the Internet café, after a 5pm ‘breakfast’ of mueslie-fruit-yoghurt, to find an email from Ulli saying that he was in Kolkata and awaiting a message from me. The email was 2 days old and gave no other information. I sent off a volley of positive replies and got some much-needed sleep. The next day was spent mostly sleeping (I had a lot of catching up to do) and a bit of a venture involving The Zurich, NetFreaks and the tailor (yes, an actual tailor). Kat, meanwhile had returned from her outing to announce that she’d seen that ‘German guy from Kathmandu in Mother Theresa’s’. C’est la Vie.
So that night I’d prepared for another early night for an early morning departure and was settling down with a notebook around 9.30pm when there was a knock at the door. Slightly agitated as a) I’d given up on Ulli finding me and b) the hotel staff kept wanting things, I answered to the concierge (posh word for the security guard) who indicated around the door where a slightly longer peer revealed Ulli with his backpack. ‘Ulli! Oh my God, come in!’ So he did, the crazy man. We agreed to meet later to go and find some food but the only place that I knew would be open at that late hour (nearly midnight by this time) was an upmarket hotel called The Park. Neither of us was comfortable so we left and combed the deserted streets in search of food. A charming young man with a gold earring ushered us through an alleyway and into a local eatery where we smiled and feasted on aloo, dhal and chapattis. It was lovely!
Ulli kindly met me early the next morning to see me off to the airport (flying from Kolkata to Bangkok) and I hope our paths will cross again someday soon.
Tuesday, 19 August 2008
Monday, 11 August 2008
Part I: Chiang Mai, Northern Thailand, 12th August 2008
I have had the most amazing 24 hours of happy occurrences(see 'Happy Accidents' below, posted yesterday) which I have logged on to tell you all about. I had the perfect night's sleep, had the perfect breakfast and found what I thought would be the perfect internet cafe, raring to go. Alas (does anyone actually use this word anymore?) it just won't do. The aircon is too cold (I'm even equipped with an extra sweater), the screen is at an odd angle with the settings off kilter, the keyboard is an unfamiliar layout, there's an incredibly annoying Google pop-up that keeps appearing on the right hand side of the screen obscuring the functions there and, most annoyingly of all, a constant hammering has started up just the other side of the partition. So I'm going to have to move. I have a LOT of online stuff to do today so I need to be comfortable and able to think straight. Which, due to my excellent night of sleep, I'll be able to do for the first time in weeks if not months.
As I've already downloaded my photos from my camera onto this machine, I'll upload them here before I move and fill in the gaps later on. So here they are (captions below)...
As I've already downloaded my photos from my camera onto this machine, I'll upload them here before I move and fill in the gaps later on. So here they are (captions below)...
My favourite shoes. I LOVE these shoes. I bought them about 2 years ago from a discount sports shop for a fiver to wear to the pool when I belonged to the local swimming club. They have outlasted every other pair of flip-flops/hiking sandals on the truck and are still going strong. Shown here after a much-needed thorough clean. They're still my fave, along with my Ecco's (not shown) and my hiking boots (shown below). Hey, shoes are important to a girl!
These went round the world with me in 2003 and here they are on the road again. They've seen a lot more mud this time round.
6th August 2008 - Kat, Mo and I in Kolkata airport awaiting our flight to Bangkok. Note: hiking boots - as every traveller worth their salt knows to wear their heaviest shoes while flying to save having to carry them.
9th August 2008. Out for dinner in Bangkok just off the famous Koh San Road. I haven't yet found a good Pad Thai but I'm having fun trying. This was our last night before the overnight train to Chiang Mai.
There are many sad realities about Bangkok life and this is one of them. A baby elephant in the middle of the noisy, polluted tourist district. The poor baby was in obvious distress, crying pitifully for its mother and swinging its head desperately from side to side. These things can be very upsetting for travellers if you a) know about them; b) let it get to you; and c) care. It's amazing how many people don't a) or c). Or worse, a) but don't c).
Self-portrait in the back of a tuk-tuk on my way to meet Mum's friend, Anong. The sunglasses are hiding bags big enough in which to hide the Eiffel Tower. I've been scaring myself every time I catch a glimpse of my reflection which obviously I've been avoiding as I don't enjoy being scared.
Lunch with Anong (sitting to my right) and her friend, Dang (sitting to her right). The two attractive young people sitting on either side are her son and daughter-in-law although it's unclear as to which is her child and which is the in-law. Anyway, one of them owns the restaurant and it was a rare pleasure to eat with locals in a local restaurant without an English name. Of course it was lovely to meet Anong and Dang.
From right to left: Lynda 'big-bags' (don't zoom too closely), Anong and Dang. Anong has played lawn-bowls for Thailand and showed me many lovely photos of herself around the world with other champions playing bowls. She also showed many photos of her and Dang dressed to kill for the after-parties at these clubs. Quite the stunning pair.
10th August 2008 - Three King Monument, Chiang Mai. We arrived at 8am in Chiang Mai after a sleepless night (I can't sleep in upright, airplane-style chairs) on the train. Blissfully there is a pool in our guesthouse so while everyone sat around drinking coffee waiting for our rooms to be allocated, I was doing laps and easing out the cricks from the journey. This unwound me enough to get a couple of hours sleep before heading out for a wander. Made no difference to the eye-bags though (again, don't zoom, ta).Right, I'm now going to do some admin and give some long-overdue replies to emails before continuing with Part II which may or may not be today. Have a scroll down just in case you've missed something as I've been blogging like mad the last few days (and still have loads more to tell you!). Bye for now.
Sunday, 10 August 2008
Chiang Mai, Thailand, Monday 11th August 2008
Chiang Mai (12-hour train North from Bangkok) is lovely. It's an old walled, moated city...but more about that later. I wanted to share this month's thought from The Hill with you so here it is:
Thought: Happy Accidents
Happy Accidents are marvellous things. Otherwise know as Serendipity, they are unexpected meetings; astonishing coincidences or wild occurrences that make you go WOW.
There are of course Unhappy Accidents. These include running your car into other cars or trees or bumping into your husband / wife whilst out on a date with your lover.
But we’re talking about Happy Accidents here. And there are ways of increasing the number and scale of Happy Accidents in your life (just as there are ways of increasing the Unhappy ones too). I will number them too, just so you can practise your counting (for younger members of our audience):
1. Be open to Happy Accidents. Just being open to them means you’ll get more of them. Strange but true. Just as being open to seeing white Fiat 500s will magically deliver more Fiat 500s to your sensory world.
2. Relax and trust that things will be okay in your life. Just relaxing (and trusting that things will be okay is a macro from of relaxation) will bring numerous Happy Accidents into your life. It’s to do with energy. And if you want to know more, come to one of our weeks or read a good book about it, it’s a big one.
3. Notice the Happy Accidents, enjoy them, value them, thank whatever Deity you like for them… and once you do this, they know they’ve got an appreciative audience and will come to visit you again.
Thought: Happy Accidents
Happy Accidents are marvellous things. Otherwise know as Serendipity, they are unexpected meetings; astonishing coincidences or wild occurrences that make you go WOW.
There are of course Unhappy Accidents. These include running your car into other cars or trees or bumping into your husband / wife whilst out on a date with your lover.
But we’re talking about Happy Accidents here. And there are ways of increasing the number and scale of Happy Accidents in your life (just as there are ways of increasing the Unhappy ones too). I will number them too, just so you can practise your counting (for younger members of our audience):
1. Be open to Happy Accidents. Just being open to them means you’ll get more of them. Strange but true. Just as being open to seeing white Fiat 500s will magically deliver more Fiat 500s to your sensory world.
2. Relax and trust that things will be okay in your life. Just relaxing (and trusting that things will be okay is a macro from of relaxation) will bring numerous Happy Accidents into your life. It’s to do with energy. And if you want to know more, come to one of our weeks or read a good book about it, it’s a big one.
3. Notice the Happy Accidents, enjoy them, value them, thank whatever Deity you like for them… and once you do this, they know they’ve got an appreciative audience and will come to visit you again.
Thursday, 7 August 2008
Bankgok, Thailand, 8th August 2008
Yes, it's pre-10am, unheard of for me, and I'm here, online, buzzing to tell you what's going on. I MISS INDIA! India and Nepal is where the Travellers are. This place is full of Holidaymakers. An entirely different breed. And there are a lot of people here who don't want to be here. You can see it in their faces and their body language. There are a lot of people here who don't like who they are and don't want to be in their bodies. All trying to Be Someone Else or Be Somewhere Else. It's a sad reality. And interesting to observe. The most self-assured people I've met were in the Hospital - don't panic, Mom, I'm fine! Here's what happened...
My last night in Kolkata, another place that I loved, was not what I had planned. My intention was to get an early night, get some sleep and get packed for our 8am departure to the airport the following morning. This is not what happened. What actually happened was that I got to bed around 5:30am for an hour before getting up to stuff my things into my rucksack and slither into the waiting taxi at 8:15. We made it to the airport just after 9am, checked in our bags, and I headed for a samoosa breakfast washed down with a lovely chai, hot and sweet. Lovely!
One thing to tell you about Kolkata, while I think of it, is that the traffic direction on a lot of roads changes at about 2pm every day. Best to avoid trying to catch a taxi at this time. Anyway, we had a good flight on Jet Airways and I watched a fantastic film which was, frustratingly, longer than the flight so I haven't seen the ending, called 'Jab We Met'. It was so enchanting and very funny that it warmed my heart and had me laughing out loud in several places. Anyone who has the opportunity to see this film, please do. By the way, Mumbai (Bollywood) makes more films than anywhere else in the world (including Hollywood). So we arrived in Bangkok and took an indulgent taxi to our hotel 'Star Dome Inn' in Rambutti Road which backs onto the famous backpacker strip of Koh San Road. Naturally, the taxi driver didn't know where the hotel was located (this happens a lot) and drove around for a bit while we all struggled to stay awake as none of us, myself, Kat and Mo, had had much sleep the night before. Eventually, around 4pm, we all fell out of the taxi, wearily shouldered our rucksacks and after a brief and heated exchange between Mo (the fiery Irish chick) and the receptionist, made our way up to our rooms and dumped our stuff. Rob had left us a welcome note with his room number so we went upstairs to say hello and agree a plan for the evening which was to meet in reception at 8pm. I retired to my room with my newly acquired eye-mask to catch some much-needed sleep for an hour or so.
I've heard many people say that Bangkok is an overwhelming assault to the senses and as soon as they arrive they want to leave. Immediately. Obviously these people hadn't just come from India. We remarked on how peaceful and quiet the city is. It's a positively tranquil oasis compared to the heaving, honking frenzy of Indian cities. So 8pm arrived and I reluctantly roused myself and pulled on some jeans to meet everyone. We went up the road to a welcoming-looking place where I ordered a soda and a chicken pad thai, easy. Bangkok is The Place for people-watching. So after catching up with the others, who had flown in a day earlier, and my disappointing pad thai (no flavour, crap chicken), we moved down to a roadside table so that Jan, Vince and Rob could polish off their 2lt bottle of red wine. I pulled up a comfy chair and ordered another soda.
It was better than theatre watching this lot. Very entertaining. Jan is like a magnet to street-hawkers and was priding herself on her bargaining skills after paying 100 Baht (about one pound forty) for a bangle and then, later, paying 50 Baht for another bangle. The woman is Hot. I played my 'looking on serenely while elegantly sipping my water' role and watched the world (and the lady-boys) go by. Then, when we moved on for dessert, I made my excuses and left. I would've gone straight to sleep if the bed wasn't vibrating with the drums of the band next door, but enjoyed simply being here and watched my thoughts for a time before slowing them down and tuning them out. I have a room to myself, ensuite, a double bed and the softest, most luscious pillows. Wonderful!
This brings us up to yesterday. I am still intending, by the way, to finish off my story about the road-trip across India from Nepal to Mumbai. I have notes. Yesterday I SLEPT. The entire day. I simply could NOT get out of bed. Even to do yoga. Which worried me into thinking that I might have a touch of Malaria. I've been taking a Homeopathic (China Arsenicum) malaria remedy as it's a bit of a hobby of mine, homeopathy, and I'm still building trust in the system. And you know, better to be safe than sorry. So I dragged myself downstairs in my pyjamas (I LOVE pyjamas) and found Jane (tour leader), who said I didn't look well, and explained that I wanted to go the hospital for a blood test, just in case. What followed was a comedy of Eastern idiosyncrasies involving a tuk-tuk driver, both helpless and helpful passers-by and a foolproof navigation system-in-action of 7-11 staff around the city. Some hours later we found ourselves (well actually we had more to do with it than simply finding ourselves there), at the promising looking hospital whereupon we were immediately ushered through to the nurses' station and questioned on symptoms. It was at this point that I started to doubt my tropical diseasedness but still couldn't explain the extended sleeping and, well, we were there now so I went with the flow.
Clearly there isn't enough hospitalised illness in Bangkok on a Thursday night as I had no fewer than 5 female nurses and a male nurse attend to me. One took my temperature, one took some blood, one took my blood pressure and the other two took it in turns to tell me the results. They were SO sweet! And really interested in where I was from (South Africa), when we'd arrived, where we'd come from and where we were going. No fever, by the way, and blood pressure normal. Wait half an hour (!) for the results, so we did. No malaria. But an interesting adventure costing 1 pound forty in tuk-tuk fare and just over 3 pounds for the investigation. And we still got back to the hotel in time for a night out. Result! Mum, I still haven't phoned Anong, due to the events, but will do today, I promise!
The others had gone to a Thai boxing match (which I'm kinda glad I missed) and Oskar had said he'd be up for some drinks. I, by this time, had concluded that my narcolepsy was due to a shortage of food and a bit of mild dehydration. I weighed myself at the hospital to discover that, for the first time in, well, a long time, I'm under 60kgs. Time for Food! So we collected Oskar and headed round to Koh San Road for the aforementioned assault on the senses and some refreshment. Both of which was consumed in happy quantities. Towards the end of the night, which was pretty early by my usual standards, Jane and Oskar got chatting to a lovely couple and started talking about the ping-pong show. The other couple decided to find one and go and Oskar decided to join them. I had, believe it or not, had enough excitement for one day (almost) and decided to leave the ping-pong delights for another night (probably tonight) so Jane and I made our way back towards the Star Dome Inn, stopping next door for a last drink.
Next door consists of a nightclub inside, where we didn't venture, entered via a courtyard containing - moth to a flame - a Swimming Pool. Well. Need I say more. One whispered word to Jane about my delight at seeing the pool and does she fancy a swim before I find myself elbowed gently into the pool. She really is a cheeky minx. So I jump and tumble about for a bit in the pool, much to the consternation of the drinkers and the hotel management (well, what the hell do they expect, putting an inviting bloody pool in their bar?!) before hoisting myself, dripping, off to my conveniently-next-door hotel.
So, today, I have made a pact with my body telling it that I'm very grateful for its endurance and response to unexpected demands for playful energy, and that I WILL reward it with tasty, wholesome food and the required amount of sleep, just as soon as we get to the riverside resort. It's hanging in. Time for breakfast so bye for now.
My last night in Kolkata, another place that I loved, was not what I had planned. My intention was to get an early night, get some sleep and get packed for our 8am departure to the airport the following morning. This is not what happened. What actually happened was that I got to bed around 5:30am for an hour before getting up to stuff my things into my rucksack and slither into the waiting taxi at 8:15. We made it to the airport just after 9am, checked in our bags, and I headed for a samoosa breakfast washed down with a lovely chai, hot and sweet. Lovely!
One thing to tell you about Kolkata, while I think of it, is that the traffic direction on a lot of roads changes at about 2pm every day. Best to avoid trying to catch a taxi at this time. Anyway, we had a good flight on Jet Airways and I watched a fantastic film which was, frustratingly, longer than the flight so I haven't seen the ending, called 'Jab We Met'. It was so enchanting and very funny that it warmed my heart and had me laughing out loud in several places. Anyone who has the opportunity to see this film, please do. By the way, Mumbai (Bollywood) makes more films than anywhere else in the world (including Hollywood). So we arrived in Bangkok and took an indulgent taxi to our hotel 'Star Dome Inn' in Rambutti Road which backs onto the famous backpacker strip of Koh San Road. Naturally, the taxi driver didn't know where the hotel was located (this happens a lot) and drove around for a bit while we all struggled to stay awake as none of us, myself, Kat and Mo, had had much sleep the night before. Eventually, around 4pm, we all fell out of the taxi, wearily shouldered our rucksacks and after a brief and heated exchange between Mo (the fiery Irish chick) and the receptionist, made our way up to our rooms and dumped our stuff. Rob had left us a welcome note with his room number so we went upstairs to say hello and agree a plan for the evening which was to meet in reception at 8pm. I retired to my room with my newly acquired eye-mask to catch some much-needed sleep for an hour or so.
I've heard many people say that Bangkok is an overwhelming assault to the senses and as soon as they arrive they want to leave. Immediately. Obviously these people hadn't just come from India. We remarked on how peaceful and quiet the city is. It's a positively tranquil oasis compared to the heaving, honking frenzy of Indian cities. So 8pm arrived and I reluctantly roused myself and pulled on some jeans to meet everyone. We went up the road to a welcoming-looking place where I ordered a soda and a chicken pad thai, easy. Bangkok is The Place for people-watching. So after catching up with the others, who had flown in a day earlier, and my disappointing pad thai (no flavour, crap chicken), we moved down to a roadside table so that Jan, Vince and Rob could polish off their 2lt bottle of red wine. I pulled up a comfy chair and ordered another soda.
It was better than theatre watching this lot. Very entertaining. Jan is like a magnet to street-hawkers and was priding herself on her bargaining skills after paying 100 Baht (about one pound forty) for a bangle and then, later, paying 50 Baht for another bangle. The woman is Hot. I played my 'looking on serenely while elegantly sipping my water' role and watched the world (and the lady-boys) go by. Then, when we moved on for dessert, I made my excuses and left. I would've gone straight to sleep if the bed wasn't vibrating with the drums of the band next door, but enjoyed simply being here and watched my thoughts for a time before slowing them down and tuning them out. I have a room to myself, ensuite, a double bed and the softest, most luscious pillows. Wonderful!
This brings us up to yesterday. I am still intending, by the way, to finish off my story about the road-trip across India from Nepal to Mumbai. I have notes. Yesterday I SLEPT. The entire day. I simply could NOT get out of bed. Even to do yoga. Which worried me into thinking that I might have a touch of Malaria. I've been taking a Homeopathic (China Arsenicum) malaria remedy as it's a bit of a hobby of mine, homeopathy, and I'm still building trust in the system. And you know, better to be safe than sorry. So I dragged myself downstairs in my pyjamas (I LOVE pyjamas) and found Jane (tour leader), who said I didn't look well, and explained that I wanted to go the hospital for a blood test, just in case. What followed was a comedy of Eastern idiosyncrasies involving a tuk-tuk driver, both helpless and helpful passers-by and a foolproof navigation system-in-action of 7-11 staff around the city. Some hours later we found ourselves (well actually we had more to do with it than simply finding ourselves there), at the promising looking hospital whereupon we were immediately ushered through to the nurses' station and questioned on symptoms. It was at this point that I started to doubt my tropical diseasedness but still couldn't explain the extended sleeping and, well, we were there now so I went with the flow.
Clearly there isn't enough hospitalised illness in Bangkok on a Thursday night as I had no fewer than 5 female nurses and a male nurse attend to me. One took my temperature, one took some blood, one took my blood pressure and the other two took it in turns to tell me the results. They were SO sweet! And really interested in where I was from (South Africa), when we'd arrived, where we'd come from and where we were going. No fever, by the way, and blood pressure normal. Wait half an hour (!) for the results, so we did. No malaria. But an interesting adventure costing 1 pound forty in tuk-tuk fare and just over 3 pounds for the investigation. And we still got back to the hotel in time for a night out. Result! Mum, I still haven't phoned Anong, due to the events, but will do today, I promise!
The others had gone to a Thai boxing match (which I'm kinda glad I missed) and Oskar had said he'd be up for some drinks. I, by this time, had concluded that my narcolepsy was due to a shortage of food and a bit of mild dehydration. I weighed myself at the hospital to discover that, for the first time in, well, a long time, I'm under 60kgs. Time for Food! So we collected Oskar and headed round to Koh San Road for the aforementioned assault on the senses and some refreshment. Both of which was consumed in happy quantities. Towards the end of the night, which was pretty early by my usual standards, Jane and Oskar got chatting to a lovely couple and started talking about the ping-pong show. The other couple decided to find one and go and Oskar decided to join them. I had, believe it or not, had enough excitement for one day (almost) and decided to leave the ping-pong delights for another night (probably tonight) so Jane and I made our way back towards the Star Dome Inn, stopping next door for a last drink.
Next door consists of a nightclub inside, where we didn't venture, entered via a courtyard containing - moth to a flame - a Swimming Pool. Well. Need I say more. One whispered word to Jane about my delight at seeing the pool and does she fancy a swim before I find myself elbowed gently into the pool. She really is a cheeky minx. So I jump and tumble about for a bit in the pool, much to the consternation of the drinkers and the hotel management (well, what the hell do they expect, putting an inviting bloody pool in their bar?!) before hoisting myself, dripping, off to my conveniently-next-door hotel.
So, today, I have made a pact with my body telling it that I'm very grateful for its endurance and response to unexpected demands for playful energy, and that I WILL reward it with tasty, wholesome food and the required amount of sleep, just as soon as we get to the riverside resort. It's hanging in. Time for breakfast so bye for now.
Tuesday, 5 August 2008
Kolkata continued, 5th August 2008...
Hi folks! I was hoping to continue the story from yesterday but this place closes soon and has some excellent photo upload software so I'm optimising facility availability (check that out!) and uploading photos first. I'll then continue the narrative when I have another opportunity which, if not tonight, will probably be over the next three days in Bangkok. I'm pleased to say that flights are confirmed for a decent hour tomorrow (midday) and the hotel is booked. It looks like comparative fabulous luxury and the icing on the cake is that I have a room all to myself. Splendid!
Then we're taking another overnight train (check the penultimate photo of my dreadful state at the end of the 35 hour trip from Mumbai - 2 sleepless nights following 3 sleepless nights!) to Chiang Mia, northern Thailand, for 3 blissful nights at another fantastic looking hotel (what's going on EOE?!) which boasts a spa. And has a photo of a swimming pool although there is no actual mention of it. Bring on the pampering, I say! This will mean lots and LOTS of yoga time.
You will see in the photos that I've been progressing nicely with my yoga and ask to be indulged while I show off again. After Chiang Mai (and the River Kwai, I kid you not), we're going to Chiang Rai and then onto the Mekong Delta and over to Laos followed by Cambodia during which the itinerary returns to the original one as posted on the EOE website.
I'm pleased to see that we're not really going into Vietnam as some of you know I went there in 2003 and was completely blown away by the country. I've been looking forward with trepidation about returning because I know that tourism has now exploded over there and the overt commercialism will sadden me. It was the spirit of the people that I loved and admired and I fear that this will have been squashed by the (relatively) easy money and blatant affluence that foreigners bring.
So, without further ado, here are the photos. Enjoy!
Bush camp en-route to Bardia, Nepal. It was a lovely spot (I think I got the order of events mixed up in the story so I'll change this and sort it all out). Well done Jacko!
Negotiating a mudslide en-route to Bardia. Jacko and John are digging out the corner while Vince, Oskar and mud-loving Jane look on.
A river crossing en-route to Bardia. You can just make out the new bridge being built on the right of the photo. Yes, it was an eventful day and what overlanding is really about!
25th July. And finally, some much enjoyed yoga!
Despite the mozzies which were the most ferocious I've encountered. Africa included.
One of my latest moves - the shoulderstand cycle - transition from shoulderstand to the bridge (a backbend).
Followed by a backbend. Excellent for the back, stomach, internal organs, arms and legs. A great all-rounder really.
And the local pets. Nice but dim.
Half spinal twist, bound.
The charming Racy Shade Resort.
Unwinding with a few beers and the local (ish) instruments. I, on one of my regular and frequent (yes, really) health slots, was on lime soda for the night.
Jan, you trouper! Jan is probably my favourite person on the trip. She's game for anything and always tries even if she's frightened or embarrassed. A real gem.
26th July, am. Photo taken from the moving truck on our departure through Bardia. This is one of the charming local settlements including house, store and animal shelter. It had been raining very heavily (still monsoon).
Our first challenge of the day (apart from the 7am departure in the rain that is). Jacko surveys and assesses the situation. Vince, the tiny figure towards the back of the photo in the middle, is mid-thigh in the water and mud. Amazingly, Jacko decided to go for it. This is a 20-tonne truck we're talking about here.
Looking back over the river we'd just crossed. Jacko the LEGEND.
Border crossing. This building is the official Immigration Office. John and Rob await their Nepali exit stamps.
And we're through! The width of this bridge is about 4 inches wider than the truck. Oncomers beware, Jacko is driving like a demon and taking No Prisoners.
28th July, ungodly hour, packing up what we think is our last bush camp. This is my 'team' taking down the toilet tent. John, Mo and Kat.
Final pack up for a 7am departure. For those of you who think I'm on holiday with leisurely lie-ins, I'm Not.
29th July, ungodly hour again. Turns out THIS is our last 'bush camp'. Next to a highway. And a large 30ft well. At least it had a holy man with a cute calf. And blessedly few onlookers. I actually got a bit of sleep that night, even if just a bit.
So here we all are. Back row from left, Jacko (the Legend), John (the pessimistic but sometimes funny Aussie), Kat (the eternal optimist), Mary (often Contary but, at 63, a real star), Mo (the spirited Irish chick), Jan (the Trouper), Rob (always the first to arrive on the action scene), Lorraine (can't get her words out but I reckon she secretly rides a Harley), Lucinda (another star), Moi (the Strange One that no one can quite work out but she does a lot of yoga), Oskar (the witty and proactive Spaniard who could barely speak English at the start of the trip) and Vince (the ex-navy, ex-fireman housewives' dream. Married to the adorable Jan).
And finally we make it to Mumbai of which I have zero photos having morphed into Nocturnal Urban Socialite for the 4 nights we were there. Okay, by the 4th night I had to slow down as I had a cold threatening to attack. The wise words of the yogi who's book I'm reading says that illness should be treated as an unwanted guest. Guests that are not acknowledged do not stay for long. So I've been practicing this method and refusing to acknowledge that the cold is mine - referring to it as the cold that is threatening and guess what...3 nights later and I'm almost well again. Two of those nights having been spent cooped up on a hot train and the third of which was spent having had a few beers in Kolkata. Okay, I confess to having had another 20-hour sleep marathon but, you guessed it, did an hour-and-a-half of yoga yesterday, ate some lentils and, if it wasn't for the dodgy prawns I had last night, I'd be 100%.
Herr Jane, the workhorse, in her bunk on her laptop on the train. There wasn't aircon but there were fans.
Oskar with his book and iPod, Kat taking a nap (kat-nap - geddit?). I had a top bunk with an aerial view. We were right in front of the kitchen car so everytime the train slowed (there were about 42 stops along the way), the heat from the kitchen engulfed us to a sometimes-unbearable degree. Moving around from window to bunk-near-the-fan helped. And, if strategically negotiated, the odd doorway could be occupied for a time. 
Don't spread this one around. I haven't slept for 5 nights, haven't showered or changed my clothes for 3 days and am about to enter the frenzied urban melee that is Kolkata at morning rush-hour. Tired, smelly, looking like shit (with a weird hair-aerial) but happy to have had the 'India-overnight-train' experience and looking forward to the next adventure. Forgot to mention 'fighting off a cold'. Bring it on!
A snapshot of suburban Kolkata - looks just like you thought it would hey! The word painted on the building on the right is 'Abandoned'. These are actually quite upmarket slum-dwellings as they're made of brick and have roofs.
That's all for now until next time folks. Namaste! Reporting again soon from Thailand...
Then we're taking another overnight train (check the penultimate photo of my dreadful state at the end of the 35 hour trip from Mumbai - 2 sleepless nights following 3 sleepless nights!) to Chiang Mia, northern Thailand, for 3 blissful nights at another fantastic looking hotel (what's going on EOE?!) which boasts a spa. And has a photo of a swimming pool although there is no actual mention of it. Bring on the pampering, I say! This will mean lots and LOTS of yoga time.
You will see in the photos that I've been progressing nicely with my yoga and ask to be indulged while I show off again. After Chiang Mai (and the River Kwai, I kid you not), we're going to Chiang Rai and then onto the Mekong Delta and over to Laos followed by Cambodia during which the itinerary returns to the original one as posted on the EOE website.
I'm pleased to see that we're not really going into Vietnam as some of you know I went there in 2003 and was completely blown away by the country. I've been looking forward with trepidation about returning because I know that tourism has now exploded over there and the overt commercialism will sadden me. It was the spirit of the people that I loved and admired and I fear that this will have been squashed by the (relatively) easy money and blatant affluence that foreigners bring.
So, without further ado, here are the photos. Enjoy!
Durbar Square, Kathmandu, 23rd July (I think). Taken from a taxi at 7am on the way to the truck park for departure to Bardia National Park. I'm still drunk.
Another shot of Durbar Square. Since I didn't take a single photo for the entire 2 weeks of my Kathmandu stay, I was trying to make up for it at the last minute.
Hangover breakfast on the truck around 11am. Dhal (spicy lentil), Aloo (spicy potato), spicy chickpea stuff and two rotis. Tasty!
Bush camp en-route to Bardia, Nepal. It was a lovely spot (I think I got the order of events mixed up in the story so I'll change this and sort it all out). Well done Jacko!
Negotiating a mudslide en-route to Bardia. Jacko and John are digging out the corner while Vince, Oskar and mud-loving Jane look on.
A river crossing en-route to Bardia. You can just make out the new bridge being built on the right of the photo. Yes, it was an eventful day and what overlanding is really about!
25th July. And finally, some much enjoyed yoga!
Despite the mozzies which were the most ferocious I've encountered. Africa included.
One of my latest moves - the shoulderstand cycle - transition from shoulderstand to the bridge (a backbend).
Followed by a backbend. Excellent for the back, stomach, internal organs, arms and legs. A great all-rounder really.
And the local pets. Nice but dim.
Half spinal twist, bound.
The charming Racy Shade Resort.
Unwinding with a few beers and the local (ish) instruments. I, on one of my regular and frequent (yes, really) health slots, was on lime soda for the night.
Jan, you trouper! Jan is probably my favourite person on the trip. She's game for anything and always tries even if she's frightened or embarrassed. A real gem.
26th July, am. Photo taken from the moving truck on our departure through Bardia. This is one of the charming local settlements including house, store and animal shelter. It had been raining very heavily (still monsoon).
Our first challenge of the day (apart from the 7am departure in the rain that is). Jacko surveys and assesses the situation. Vince, the tiny figure towards the back of the photo in the middle, is mid-thigh in the water and mud. Amazingly, Jacko decided to go for it. This is a 20-tonne truck we're talking about here.
Looking back over the river we'd just crossed. Jacko the LEGEND.
Border crossing. This building is the official Immigration Office. John and Rob await their Nepali exit stamps.
And we're through! The width of this bridge is about 4 inches wider than the truck. Oncomers beware, Jacko is driving like a demon and taking No Prisoners.
28th July, ungodly hour, packing up what we think is our last bush camp. This is my 'team' taking down the toilet tent. John, Mo and Kat.
Final pack up for a 7am departure. For those of you who think I'm on holiday with leisurely lie-ins, I'm Not.
29th July, ungodly hour again. Turns out THIS is our last 'bush camp'. Next to a highway. And a large 30ft well. At least it had a holy man with a cute calf. And blessedly few onlookers. I actually got a bit of sleep that night, even if just a bit.
So here we all are. Back row from left, Jacko (the Legend), John (the pessimistic but sometimes funny Aussie), Kat (the eternal optimist), Mary (often Contary but, at 63, a real star), Mo (the spirited Irish chick), Jan (the Trouper), Rob (always the first to arrive on the action scene), Lorraine (can't get her words out but I reckon she secretly rides a Harley), Lucinda (another star), Moi (the Strange One that no one can quite work out but she does a lot of yoga), Oskar (the witty and proactive Spaniard who could barely speak English at the start of the trip) and Vince (the ex-navy, ex-fireman housewives' dream. Married to the adorable Jan).
And finally we make it to Mumbai of which I have zero photos having morphed into Nocturnal Urban Socialite for the 4 nights we were there. Okay, by the 4th night I had to slow down as I had a cold threatening to attack. The wise words of the yogi who's book I'm reading says that illness should be treated as an unwanted guest. Guests that are not acknowledged do not stay for long. So I've been practicing this method and refusing to acknowledge that the cold is mine - referring to it as the cold that is threatening and guess what...3 nights later and I'm almost well again. Two of those nights having been spent cooped up on a hot train and the third of which was spent having had a few beers in Kolkata. Okay, I confess to having had another 20-hour sleep marathon but, you guessed it, did an hour-and-a-half of yoga yesterday, ate some lentils and, if it wasn't for the dodgy prawns I had last night, I'd be 100%.
Saturday 2nd August - Settling into the train for the 2 nights and a day journey. This space was shared by another 2 chaps and myself but, all in all, everyone was really considerate (for the most part), the food was good (I love Thali - a sort of platter dish with a veg/chicken curry, dhal, rice and 2 chappatis), the samoosas were tasty and the scenery was interesting, when light and accessible.
Herr Jane, the workhorse, in her bunk on her laptop on the train. There wasn't aircon but there were fans.
Oskar with his book and iPod, Kat taking a nap (kat-nap - geddit?). I had a top bunk with an aerial view. We were right in front of the kitchen car so everytime the train slowed (there were about 42 stops along the way), the heat from the kitchen engulfed us to a sometimes-unbearable degree. Moving around from window to bunk-near-the-fan helped. And, if strategically negotiated, the odd doorway could be occupied for a time. 
Don't spread this one around. I haven't slept for 5 nights, haven't showered or changed my clothes for 3 days and am about to enter the frenzied urban melee that is Kolkata at morning rush-hour. Tired, smelly, looking like shit (with a weird hair-aerial) but happy to have had the 'India-overnight-train' experience and looking forward to the next adventure. Forgot to mention 'fighting off a cold'. Bring it on!
A snapshot of suburban Kolkata - looks just like you thought it would hey! The word painted on the building on the right is 'Abandoned'. These are actually quite upmarket slum-dwellings as they're made of brick and have roofs.
That's all for now until next time folks. Namaste! Reporting again soon from Thailand...
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