We arrived in Delhi on Saturday 7th June after an overnight trip and the main priority very shortly after arriving was to get away as quickly as possibly. We needed to be somewhere fairly nearby (within a day's travel) to meet up with the truck when it comes but far enough away to be removed from the noisy, crowded, destitute melee that is Delhi.
Firstly we needed to get somewhere to sleep which was achieved after some negotiation with a zealous tour operator who was trying to sell us high-priced tours all over the country, warning us not to stay in Delhi because of some unrest blah blah blah. Sadly it's necessary to take information from these people with a pinch of salt as they often have an alterior motive and are usually after your money despite earnest proclamations about caring only for your happiness. Anyway, due to tiredness and desperation, we were ripped off a little bit but conceded to this as it meant a clean hotel room and a much-needed bed for the next 18 hours or so.
After a sleep and a couple of hours poring over the Lonely Planet, we decided to go to a laid back, hippy place called Rishikesh billed as 'The yoga capital of the world' with some credibility apparently. A 6-hour bus ride from Delhi and do-able. So we went to the only 'government endorsed, reputable' travel agent in the city to get bus tickets and he launched determinedly into a sales pitch for tours to various parts of the country. We had to be pretty firm and insist that we just wanted return bus tickets to Rishikesh. But apparently due to the unrest, all public transport out of Delhi was being cancelled and our only options were to either fly or take a car with a driver. Naturally he could easily provide us with flight tickets or a car/driver and an hotel booking at the destination of our choice. And of course the travel agent was closing in half an hour and not open the next day so we had to either make a quick decision or be stuck in Delhi for longer than was worth contemplating. We made the car/driver/hotel booking and arranged for the taxi to meet us at our hotel at 7am the next morning.
We enjoyed the rest of the evening wandering from India Gate (looks like the Arc de Triomphe) through a large central park along a pedestrian area, fending off mini-helicopter vendors (the children were the most persistent and rude) and dancing monkey owners. Okay, well this bit we didn't enjoy but the walk itself was pleasant and gave us some time to chat and catch our breath.
So on Sunday 7th June we, and every local holidaymaker in India, hit the road for Rishikesh. It took about 8 hours, including the 2-hour traffic jam 15kms before Rishikesh but we made it alive and the relative splendour of our hotel upon arrival gave some comfort that most of the money (if not all) that we'd handed over in Delhi was going towards our comfort and hygiene for the next 7 nights. I wasted no time in checking out the immediate vicinity for a yoga instructor or two and arranged a couple of classes for the next day. We had a very good meal in the hotel restaurant and went to bed, weary after the day of travelling in the sweltering heat but happy to be here.
Monday started off with yoga at 8:30am which was more breathing exercises than physical postures but, given our rookie status, we reserved our judgement and gave it some credit. We explored the area a bit and were impressed by the sheer force and volume of the mighty Ganges. Rishikesh nestles in the foothills of the Himalayas so it's very hilly and scenic. There are two suspension (pedestrian) bridges over the Ganges 2km apart and it's around these that the two parts of the town have settled and grown. Rishikesh is renowned for being a spiritual centre and is famous for the location of the ashram where the Beatles stayed while writing their White Album. There are lots of ashrams, which are not at all what I'd imagined, temples, and centres for yoga, meditation and massage.
There have so far been two outstanding things about our Indian experience - The Food, which we've both agreed is the best in the world - and white water rafting 26km down the Ganges, which has been a highlight of the whole trip for me. I LOVED it! We went yesterday and I can't wait to do it again. It almost puts yoga in the shade. Almost.
Our afternoon yoga was much better with less 'lifestyle advice' and more physical movement. We've since ditched the morning instructor and have moved into Ashtanga Vinyasa with our afternoon instructor. I have an enormous amount to learn about the theory and philosophy side of yoga but I'm not particularly interested in it at the moment and as time is limited I want to focus on keeping up the strength and flexibility side of it for now. It's been a welcome change to have some instruction rather than self practice and we've done something new every day.
The plans at the moment are coming towards the time when Simon and I have to go our separate ways which we are facing with intrepidation, each for our own reasons. Simon is daunted about going to teach for the first time in a metropolitan high school next month (in Perth) and all that goes with getting set up in a new city. I am worried about how things will change without him always at my side and the loneliness of losing my constant companion of the last 3 months. He is heading back to Delhi on the 17th to take up a place at a meditation centre (we originally though I'd be back with the truck by the 15th) before flying out of India on the 30th. I will be meeting the truck on the 23rd in Delhi so I'll probably stay here in Rishikesh until then.
News from the truck is that they have been denied a permit to enter China and are currently travelling along the Karakoram Highway in Pakistan, entering India on the 19th.
It's getting late now and we're trying a new morning yoga session tomorrow which starts at 6:30am so we'd better head off to bed now. I hope everyone is well and happy and thank you for your emails which are always lovely to receive.
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