Tuesday, 19 August 2008
Monday, 11 August 2008
Part I: Chiang Mai, Northern Thailand, 12th August 2008
I have had the most amazing 24 hours of happy occurrences(see 'Happy Accidents' below, posted yesterday) which I have logged on to tell you all about. I had the perfect night's sleep, had the perfect breakfast and found what I thought would be the perfect internet cafe, raring to go. Alas (does anyone actually use this word anymore?) it just won't do. The aircon is too cold (I'm even equipped with an extra sweater), the screen is at an odd angle with the settings off kilter, the keyboard is an unfamiliar layout, there's an incredibly annoying Google pop-up that keeps appearing on the right hand side of the screen obscuring the functions there and, most annoyingly of all, a constant hammering has started up just the other side of the partition. So I'm going to have to move. I have a LOT of online stuff to do today so I need to be comfortable and able to think straight. Which, due to my excellent night of sleep, I'll be able to do for the first time in weeks if not months.
As I've already downloaded my photos from my camera onto this machine, I'll upload them here before I move and fill in the gaps later on. So here they are (captions below)...
As I've already downloaded my photos from my camera onto this machine, I'll upload them here before I move and fill in the gaps later on. So here they are (captions below)...
My favourite shoes. I LOVE these shoes. I bought them about 2 years ago from a discount sports shop for a fiver to wear to the pool when I belonged to the local swimming club. They have outlasted every other pair of flip-flops/hiking sandals on the truck and are still going strong. Shown here after a much-needed thorough clean. They're still my fave, along with my Ecco's (not shown) and my hiking boots (shown below). Hey, shoes are important to a girl!
These went round the world with me in 2003 and here they are on the road again. They've seen a lot more mud this time round.
6th August 2008 - Kat, Mo and I in Kolkata airport awaiting our flight to Bangkok. Note: hiking boots - as every traveller worth their salt knows to wear their heaviest shoes while flying to save having to carry them.
9th August 2008. Out for dinner in Bangkok just off the famous Koh San Road. I haven't yet found a good Pad Thai but I'm having fun trying. This was our last night before the overnight train to Chiang Mai.
There are many sad realities about Bangkok life and this is one of them. A baby elephant in the middle of the noisy, polluted tourist district. The poor baby was in obvious distress, crying pitifully for its mother and swinging its head desperately from side to side. These things can be very upsetting for travellers if you a) know about them; b) let it get to you; and c) care. It's amazing how many people don't a) or c). Or worse, a) but don't c).
Self-portrait in the back of a tuk-tuk on my way to meet Mum's friend, Anong. The sunglasses are hiding bags big enough in which to hide the Eiffel Tower. I've been scaring myself every time I catch a glimpse of my reflection which obviously I've been avoiding as I don't enjoy being scared.
Lunch with Anong (sitting to my right) and her friend, Dang (sitting to her right). The two attractive young people sitting on either side are her son and daughter-in-law although it's unclear as to which is her child and which is the in-law. Anyway, one of them owns the restaurant and it was a rare pleasure to eat with locals in a local restaurant without an English name. Of course it was lovely to meet Anong and Dang.
From right to left: Lynda 'big-bags' (don't zoom too closely), Anong and Dang. Anong has played lawn-bowls for Thailand and showed me many lovely photos of herself around the world with other champions playing bowls. She also showed many photos of her and Dang dressed to kill for the after-parties at these clubs. Quite the stunning pair.
10th August 2008 - Three King Monument, Chiang Mai. We arrived at 8am in Chiang Mai after a sleepless night (I can't sleep in upright, airplane-style chairs) on the train. Blissfully there is a pool in our guesthouse so while everyone sat around drinking coffee waiting for our rooms to be allocated, I was doing laps and easing out the cricks from the journey. This unwound me enough to get a couple of hours sleep before heading out for a wander. Made no difference to the eye-bags though (again, don't zoom, ta).Right, I'm now going to do some admin and give some long-overdue replies to emails before continuing with Part II which may or may not be today. Have a scroll down just in case you've missed something as I've been blogging like mad the last few days (and still have loads more to tell you!). Bye for now.
Sunday, 10 August 2008
Chiang Mai, Thailand, Monday 11th August 2008
Chiang Mai (12-hour train North from Bangkok) is lovely. It's an old walled, moated city...but more about that later. I wanted to share this month's thought from The Hill with you so here it is:
Thought: Happy Accidents
Happy Accidents are marvellous things. Otherwise know as Serendipity, they are unexpected meetings; astonishing coincidences or wild occurrences that make you go WOW.
There are of course Unhappy Accidents. These include running your car into other cars or trees or bumping into your husband / wife whilst out on a date with your lover.
But we’re talking about Happy Accidents here. And there are ways of increasing the number and scale of Happy Accidents in your life (just as there are ways of increasing the Unhappy ones too). I will number them too, just so you can practise your counting (for younger members of our audience):
1. Be open to Happy Accidents. Just being open to them means you’ll get more of them. Strange but true. Just as being open to seeing white Fiat 500s will magically deliver more Fiat 500s to your sensory world.
2. Relax and trust that things will be okay in your life. Just relaxing (and trusting that things will be okay is a macro from of relaxation) will bring numerous Happy Accidents into your life. It’s to do with energy. And if you want to know more, come to one of our weeks or read a good book about it, it’s a big one.
3. Notice the Happy Accidents, enjoy them, value them, thank whatever Deity you like for them… and once you do this, they know they’ve got an appreciative audience and will come to visit you again.
Thought: Happy Accidents
Happy Accidents are marvellous things. Otherwise know as Serendipity, they are unexpected meetings; astonishing coincidences or wild occurrences that make you go WOW.
There are of course Unhappy Accidents. These include running your car into other cars or trees or bumping into your husband / wife whilst out on a date with your lover.
But we’re talking about Happy Accidents here. And there are ways of increasing the number and scale of Happy Accidents in your life (just as there are ways of increasing the Unhappy ones too). I will number them too, just so you can practise your counting (for younger members of our audience):
1. Be open to Happy Accidents. Just being open to them means you’ll get more of them. Strange but true. Just as being open to seeing white Fiat 500s will magically deliver more Fiat 500s to your sensory world.
2. Relax and trust that things will be okay in your life. Just relaxing (and trusting that things will be okay is a macro from of relaxation) will bring numerous Happy Accidents into your life. It’s to do with energy. And if you want to know more, come to one of our weeks or read a good book about it, it’s a big one.
3. Notice the Happy Accidents, enjoy them, value them, thank whatever Deity you like for them… and once you do this, they know they’ve got an appreciative audience and will come to visit you again.
Thursday, 7 August 2008
Bankgok, Thailand, 8th August 2008
Yes, it's pre-10am, unheard of for me, and I'm here, online, buzzing to tell you what's going on. I MISS INDIA! India and Nepal is where the Travellers are. This place is full of Holidaymakers. An entirely different breed. And there are a lot of people here who don't want to be here. You can see it in their faces and their body language. There are a lot of people here who don't like who they are and don't want to be in their bodies. All trying to Be Someone Else or Be Somewhere Else. It's a sad reality. And interesting to observe. The most self-assured people I've met were in the Hospital - don't panic, Mom, I'm fine! Here's what happened...
My last night in Kolkata, another place that I loved, was not what I had planned. My intention was to get an early night, get some sleep and get packed for our 8am departure to the airport the following morning. This is not what happened. What actually happened was that I got to bed around 5:30am for an hour before getting up to stuff my things into my rucksack and slither into the waiting taxi at 8:15. We made it to the airport just after 9am, checked in our bags, and I headed for a samoosa breakfast washed down with a lovely chai, hot and sweet. Lovely!
One thing to tell you about Kolkata, while I think of it, is that the traffic direction on a lot of roads changes at about 2pm every day. Best to avoid trying to catch a taxi at this time. Anyway, we had a good flight on Jet Airways and I watched a fantastic film which was, frustratingly, longer than the flight so I haven't seen the ending, called 'Jab We Met'. It was so enchanting and very funny that it warmed my heart and had me laughing out loud in several places. Anyone who has the opportunity to see this film, please do. By the way, Mumbai (Bollywood) makes more films than anywhere else in the world (including Hollywood). So we arrived in Bangkok and took an indulgent taxi to our hotel 'Star Dome Inn' in Rambutti Road which backs onto the famous backpacker strip of Koh San Road. Naturally, the taxi driver didn't know where the hotel was located (this happens a lot) and drove around for a bit while we all struggled to stay awake as none of us, myself, Kat and Mo, had had much sleep the night before. Eventually, around 4pm, we all fell out of the taxi, wearily shouldered our rucksacks and after a brief and heated exchange between Mo (the fiery Irish chick) and the receptionist, made our way up to our rooms and dumped our stuff. Rob had left us a welcome note with his room number so we went upstairs to say hello and agree a plan for the evening which was to meet in reception at 8pm. I retired to my room with my newly acquired eye-mask to catch some much-needed sleep for an hour or so.
I've heard many people say that Bangkok is an overwhelming assault to the senses and as soon as they arrive they want to leave. Immediately. Obviously these people hadn't just come from India. We remarked on how peaceful and quiet the city is. It's a positively tranquil oasis compared to the heaving, honking frenzy of Indian cities. So 8pm arrived and I reluctantly roused myself and pulled on some jeans to meet everyone. We went up the road to a welcoming-looking place where I ordered a soda and a chicken pad thai, easy. Bangkok is The Place for people-watching. So after catching up with the others, who had flown in a day earlier, and my disappointing pad thai (no flavour, crap chicken), we moved down to a roadside table so that Jan, Vince and Rob could polish off their 2lt bottle of red wine. I pulled up a comfy chair and ordered another soda.
It was better than theatre watching this lot. Very entertaining. Jan is like a magnet to street-hawkers and was priding herself on her bargaining skills after paying 100 Baht (about one pound forty) for a bangle and then, later, paying 50 Baht for another bangle. The woman is Hot. I played my 'looking on serenely while elegantly sipping my water' role and watched the world (and the lady-boys) go by. Then, when we moved on for dessert, I made my excuses and left. I would've gone straight to sleep if the bed wasn't vibrating with the drums of the band next door, but enjoyed simply being here and watched my thoughts for a time before slowing them down and tuning them out. I have a room to myself, ensuite, a double bed and the softest, most luscious pillows. Wonderful!
This brings us up to yesterday. I am still intending, by the way, to finish off my story about the road-trip across India from Nepal to Mumbai. I have notes. Yesterday I SLEPT. The entire day. I simply could NOT get out of bed. Even to do yoga. Which worried me into thinking that I might have a touch of Malaria. I've been taking a Homeopathic (China Arsenicum) malaria remedy as it's a bit of a hobby of mine, homeopathy, and I'm still building trust in the system. And you know, better to be safe than sorry. So I dragged myself downstairs in my pyjamas (I LOVE pyjamas) and found Jane (tour leader), who said I didn't look well, and explained that I wanted to go the hospital for a blood test, just in case. What followed was a comedy of Eastern idiosyncrasies involving a tuk-tuk driver, both helpless and helpful passers-by and a foolproof navigation system-in-action of 7-11 staff around the city. Some hours later we found ourselves (well actually we had more to do with it than simply finding ourselves there), at the promising looking hospital whereupon we were immediately ushered through to the nurses' station and questioned on symptoms. It was at this point that I started to doubt my tropical diseasedness but still couldn't explain the extended sleeping and, well, we were there now so I went with the flow.
Clearly there isn't enough hospitalised illness in Bangkok on a Thursday night as I had no fewer than 5 female nurses and a male nurse attend to me. One took my temperature, one took some blood, one took my blood pressure and the other two took it in turns to tell me the results. They were SO sweet! And really interested in where I was from (South Africa), when we'd arrived, where we'd come from and where we were going. No fever, by the way, and blood pressure normal. Wait half an hour (!) for the results, so we did. No malaria. But an interesting adventure costing 1 pound forty in tuk-tuk fare and just over 3 pounds for the investigation. And we still got back to the hotel in time for a night out. Result! Mum, I still haven't phoned Anong, due to the events, but will do today, I promise!
The others had gone to a Thai boxing match (which I'm kinda glad I missed) and Oskar had said he'd be up for some drinks. I, by this time, had concluded that my narcolepsy was due to a shortage of food and a bit of mild dehydration. I weighed myself at the hospital to discover that, for the first time in, well, a long time, I'm under 60kgs. Time for Food! So we collected Oskar and headed round to Koh San Road for the aforementioned assault on the senses and some refreshment. Both of which was consumed in happy quantities. Towards the end of the night, which was pretty early by my usual standards, Jane and Oskar got chatting to a lovely couple and started talking about the ping-pong show. The other couple decided to find one and go and Oskar decided to join them. I had, believe it or not, had enough excitement for one day (almost) and decided to leave the ping-pong delights for another night (probably tonight) so Jane and I made our way back towards the Star Dome Inn, stopping next door for a last drink.
Next door consists of a nightclub inside, where we didn't venture, entered via a courtyard containing - moth to a flame - a Swimming Pool. Well. Need I say more. One whispered word to Jane about my delight at seeing the pool and does she fancy a swim before I find myself elbowed gently into the pool. She really is a cheeky minx. So I jump and tumble about for a bit in the pool, much to the consternation of the drinkers and the hotel management (well, what the hell do they expect, putting an inviting bloody pool in their bar?!) before hoisting myself, dripping, off to my conveniently-next-door hotel.
So, today, I have made a pact with my body telling it that I'm very grateful for its endurance and response to unexpected demands for playful energy, and that I WILL reward it with tasty, wholesome food and the required amount of sleep, just as soon as we get to the riverside resort. It's hanging in. Time for breakfast so bye for now.
My last night in Kolkata, another place that I loved, was not what I had planned. My intention was to get an early night, get some sleep and get packed for our 8am departure to the airport the following morning. This is not what happened. What actually happened was that I got to bed around 5:30am for an hour before getting up to stuff my things into my rucksack and slither into the waiting taxi at 8:15. We made it to the airport just after 9am, checked in our bags, and I headed for a samoosa breakfast washed down with a lovely chai, hot and sweet. Lovely!
One thing to tell you about Kolkata, while I think of it, is that the traffic direction on a lot of roads changes at about 2pm every day. Best to avoid trying to catch a taxi at this time. Anyway, we had a good flight on Jet Airways and I watched a fantastic film which was, frustratingly, longer than the flight so I haven't seen the ending, called 'Jab We Met'. It was so enchanting and very funny that it warmed my heart and had me laughing out loud in several places. Anyone who has the opportunity to see this film, please do. By the way, Mumbai (Bollywood) makes more films than anywhere else in the world (including Hollywood). So we arrived in Bangkok and took an indulgent taxi to our hotel 'Star Dome Inn' in Rambutti Road which backs onto the famous backpacker strip of Koh San Road. Naturally, the taxi driver didn't know where the hotel was located (this happens a lot) and drove around for a bit while we all struggled to stay awake as none of us, myself, Kat and Mo, had had much sleep the night before. Eventually, around 4pm, we all fell out of the taxi, wearily shouldered our rucksacks and after a brief and heated exchange between Mo (the fiery Irish chick) and the receptionist, made our way up to our rooms and dumped our stuff. Rob had left us a welcome note with his room number so we went upstairs to say hello and agree a plan for the evening which was to meet in reception at 8pm. I retired to my room with my newly acquired eye-mask to catch some much-needed sleep for an hour or so.
I've heard many people say that Bangkok is an overwhelming assault to the senses and as soon as they arrive they want to leave. Immediately. Obviously these people hadn't just come from India. We remarked on how peaceful and quiet the city is. It's a positively tranquil oasis compared to the heaving, honking frenzy of Indian cities. So 8pm arrived and I reluctantly roused myself and pulled on some jeans to meet everyone. We went up the road to a welcoming-looking place where I ordered a soda and a chicken pad thai, easy. Bangkok is The Place for people-watching. So after catching up with the others, who had flown in a day earlier, and my disappointing pad thai (no flavour, crap chicken), we moved down to a roadside table so that Jan, Vince and Rob could polish off their 2lt bottle of red wine. I pulled up a comfy chair and ordered another soda.
It was better than theatre watching this lot. Very entertaining. Jan is like a magnet to street-hawkers and was priding herself on her bargaining skills after paying 100 Baht (about one pound forty) for a bangle and then, later, paying 50 Baht for another bangle. The woman is Hot. I played my 'looking on serenely while elegantly sipping my water' role and watched the world (and the lady-boys) go by. Then, when we moved on for dessert, I made my excuses and left. I would've gone straight to sleep if the bed wasn't vibrating with the drums of the band next door, but enjoyed simply being here and watched my thoughts for a time before slowing them down and tuning them out. I have a room to myself, ensuite, a double bed and the softest, most luscious pillows. Wonderful!
This brings us up to yesterday. I am still intending, by the way, to finish off my story about the road-trip across India from Nepal to Mumbai. I have notes. Yesterday I SLEPT. The entire day. I simply could NOT get out of bed. Even to do yoga. Which worried me into thinking that I might have a touch of Malaria. I've been taking a Homeopathic (China Arsenicum) malaria remedy as it's a bit of a hobby of mine, homeopathy, and I'm still building trust in the system. And you know, better to be safe than sorry. So I dragged myself downstairs in my pyjamas (I LOVE pyjamas) and found Jane (tour leader), who said I didn't look well, and explained that I wanted to go the hospital for a blood test, just in case. What followed was a comedy of Eastern idiosyncrasies involving a tuk-tuk driver, both helpless and helpful passers-by and a foolproof navigation system-in-action of 7-11 staff around the city. Some hours later we found ourselves (well actually we had more to do with it than simply finding ourselves there), at the promising looking hospital whereupon we were immediately ushered through to the nurses' station and questioned on symptoms. It was at this point that I started to doubt my tropical diseasedness but still couldn't explain the extended sleeping and, well, we were there now so I went with the flow.
Clearly there isn't enough hospitalised illness in Bangkok on a Thursday night as I had no fewer than 5 female nurses and a male nurse attend to me. One took my temperature, one took some blood, one took my blood pressure and the other two took it in turns to tell me the results. They were SO sweet! And really interested in where I was from (South Africa), when we'd arrived, where we'd come from and where we were going. No fever, by the way, and blood pressure normal. Wait half an hour (!) for the results, so we did. No malaria. But an interesting adventure costing 1 pound forty in tuk-tuk fare and just over 3 pounds for the investigation. And we still got back to the hotel in time for a night out. Result! Mum, I still haven't phoned Anong, due to the events, but will do today, I promise!
The others had gone to a Thai boxing match (which I'm kinda glad I missed) and Oskar had said he'd be up for some drinks. I, by this time, had concluded that my narcolepsy was due to a shortage of food and a bit of mild dehydration. I weighed myself at the hospital to discover that, for the first time in, well, a long time, I'm under 60kgs. Time for Food! So we collected Oskar and headed round to Koh San Road for the aforementioned assault on the senses and some refreshment. Both of which was consumed in happy quantities. Towards the end of the night, which was pretty early by my usual standards, Jane and Oskar got chatting to a lovely couple and started talking about the ping-pong show. The other couple decided to find one and go and Oskar decided to join them. I had, believe it or not, had enough excitement for one day (almost) and decided to leave the ping-pong delights for another night (probably tonight) so Jane and I made our way back towards the Star Dome Inn, stopping next door for a last drink.
Next door consists of a nightclub inside, where we didn't venture, entered via a courtyard containing - moth to a flame - a Swimming Pool. Well. Need I say more. One whispered word to Jane about my delight at seeing the pool and does she fancy a swim before I find myself elbowed gently into the pool. She really is a cheeky minx. So I jump and tumble about for a bit in the pool, much to the consternation of the drinkers and the hotel management (well, what the hell do they expect, putting an inviting bloody pool in their bar?!) before hoisting myself, dripping, off to my conveniently-next-door hotel.
So, today, I have made a pact with my body telling it that I'm very grateful for its endurance and response to unexpected demands for playful energy, and that I WILL reward it with tasty, wholesome food and the required amount of sleep, just as soon as we get to the riverside resort. It's hanging in. Time for breakfast so bye for now.
Tuesday, 5 August 2008
Kolkata continued, 5th August 2008...
Hi folks! I was hoping to continue the story from yesterday but this place closes soon and has some excellent photo upload software so I'm optimising facility availability (check that out!) and uploading photos first. I'll then continue the narrative when I have another opportunity which, if not tonight, will probably be over the next three days in Bangkok. I'm pleased to say that flights are confirmed for a decent hour tomorrow (midday) and the hotel is booked. It looks like comparative fabulous luxury and the icing on the cake is that I have a room all to myself. Splendid!
Then we're taking another overnight train (check the penultimate photo of my dreadful state at the end of the 35 hour trip from Mumbai - 2 sleepless nights following 3 sleepless nights!) to Chiang Mia, northern Thailand, for 3 blissful nights at another fantastic looking hotel (what's going on EOE?!) which boasts a spa. And has a photo of a swimming pool although there is no actual mention of it. Bring on the pampering, I say! This will mean lots and LOTS of yoga time.
You will see in the photos that I've been progressing nicely with my yoga and ask to be indulged while I show off again. After Chiang Mai (and the River Kwai, I kid you not), we're going to Chiang Rai and then onto the Mekong Delta and over to Laos followed by Cambodia during which the itinerary returns to the original one as posted on the EOE website.
I'm pleased to see that we're not really going into Vietnam as some of you know I went there in 2003 and was completely blown away by the country. I've been looking forward with trepidation about returning because I know that tourism has now exploded over there and the overt commercialism will sadden me. It was the spirit of the people that I loved and admired and I fear that this will have been squashed by the (relatively) easy money and blatant affluence that foreigners bring.
So, without further ado, here are the photos. Enjoy!
Bush camp en-route to Bardia, Nepal. It was a lovely spot (I think I got the order of events mixed up in the story so I'll change this and sort it all out). Well done Jacko!
Negotiating a mudslide en-route to Bardia. Jacko and John are digging out the corner while Vince, Oskar and mud-loving Jane look on.
A river crossing en-route to Bardia. You can just make out the new bridge being built on the right of the photo. Yes, it was an eventful day and what overlanding is really about!
25th July. And finally, some much enjoyed yoga!
Despite the mozzies which were the most ferocious I've encountered. Africa included.
One of my latest moves - the shoulderstand cycle - transition from shoulderstand to the bridge (a backbend).
Followed by a backbend. Excellent for the back, stomach, internal organs, arms and legs. A great all-rounder really.
And the local pets. Nice but dim.
Half spinal twist, bound.
The charming Racy Shade Resort.
Unwinding with a few beers and the local (ish) instruments. I, on one of my regular and frequent (yes, really) health slots, was on lime soda for the night.
Jan, you trouper! Jan is probably my favourite person on the trip. She's game for anything and always tries even if she's frightened or embarrassed. A real gem.
26th July, am. Photo taken from the moving truck on our departure through Bardia. This is one of the charming local settlements including house, store and animal shelter. It had been raining very heavily (still monsoon).
Our first challenge of the day (apart from the 7am departure in the rain that is). Jacko surveys and assesses the situation. Vince, the tiny figure towards the back of the photo in the middle, is mid-thigh in the water and mud. Amazingly, Jacko decided to go for it. This is a 20-tonne truck we're talking about here.
Looking back over the river we'd just crossed. Jacko the LEGEND.
Border crossing. This building is the official Immigration Office. John and Rob await their Nepali exit stamps.
And we're through! The width of this bridge is about 4 inches wider than the truck. Oncomers beware, Jacko is driving like a demon and taking No Prisoners.
28th July, ungodly hour, packing up what we think is our last bush camp. This is my 'team' taking down the toilet tent. John, Mo and Kat.
Final pack up for a 7am departure. For those of you who think I'm on holiday with leisurely lie-ins, I'm Not.
29th July, ungodly hour again. Turns out THIS is our last 'bush camp'. Next to a highway. And a large 30ft well. At least it had a holy man with a cute calf. And blessedly few onlookers. I actually got a bit of sleep that night, even if just a bit.
So here we all are. Back row from left, Jacko (the Legend), John (the pessimistic but sometimes funny Aussie), Kat (the eternal optimist), Mary (often Contary but, at 63, a real star), Mo (the spirited Irish chick), Jan (the Trouper), Rob (always the first to arrive on the action scene), Lorraine (can't get her words out but I reckon she secretly rides a Harley), Lucinda (another star), Moi (the Strange One that no one can quite work out but she does a lot of yoga), Oskar (the witty and proactive Spaniard who could barely speak English at the start of the trip) and Vince (the ex-navy, ex-fireman housewives' dream. Married to the adorable Jan).
And finally we make it to Mumbai of which I have zero photos having morphed into Nocturnal Urban Socialite for the 4 nights we were there. Okay, by the 4th night I had to slow down as I had a cold threatening to attack. The wise words of the yogi who's book I'm reading says that illness should be treated as an unwanted guest. Guests that are not acknowledged do not stay for long. So I've been practicing this method and refusing to acknowledge that the cold is mine - referring to it as the cold that is threatening and guess what...3 nights later and I'm almost well again. Two of those nights having been spent cooped up on a hot train and the third of which was spent having had a few beers in Kolkata. Okay, I confess to having had another 20-hour sleep marathon but, you guessed it, did an hour-and-a-half of yoga yesterday, ate some lentils and, if it wasn't for the dodgy prawns I had last night, I'd be 100%.
Herr Jane, the workhorse, in her bunk on her laptop on the train. There wasn't aircon but there were fans.
Oskar with his book and iPod, Kat taking a nap (kat-nap - geddit?). I had a top bunk with an aerial view. We were right in front of the kitchen car so everytime the train slowed (there were about 42 stops along the way), the heat from the kitchen engulfed us to a sometimes-unbearable degree. Moving around from window to bunk-near-the-fan helped. And, if strategically negotiated, the odd doorway could be occupied for a time. 
Don't spread this one around. I haven't slept for 5 nights, haven't showered or changed my clothes for 3 days and am about to enter the frenzied urban melee that is Kolkata at morning rush-hour. Tired, smelly, looking like shit (with a weird hair-aerial) but happy to have had the 'India-overnight-train' experience and looking forward to the next adventure. Forgot to mention 'fighting off a cold'. Bring it on!
A snapshot of suburban Kolkata - looks just like you thought it would hey! The word painted on the building on the right is 'Abandoned'. These are actually quite upmarket slum-dwellings as they're made of brick and have roofs.
That's all for now until next time folks. Namaste! Reporting again soon from Thailand...
Then we're taking another overnight train (check the penultimate photo of my dreadful state at the end of the 35 hour trip from Mumbai - 2 sleepless nights following 3 sleepless nights!) to Chiang Mia, northern Thailand, for 3 blissful nights at another fantastic looking hotel (what's going on EOE?!) which boasts a spa. And has a photo of a swimming pool although there is no actual mention of it. Bring on the pampering, I say! This will mean lots and LOTS of yoga time.
You will see in the photos that I've been progressing nicely with my yoga and ask to be indulged while I show off again. After Chiang Mai (and the River Kwai, I kid you not), we're going to Chiang Rai and then onto the Mekong Delta and over to Laos followed by Cambodia during which the itinerary returns to the original one as posted on the EOE website.
I'm pleased to see that we're not really going into Vietnam as some of you know I went there in 2003 and was completely blown away by the country. I've been looking forward with trepidation about returning because I know that tourism has now exploded over there and the overt commercialism will sadden me. It was the spirit of the people that I loved and admired and I fear that this will have been squashed by the (relatively) easy money and blatant affluence that foreigners bring.
So, without further ado, here are the photos. Enjoy!
Durbar Square, Kathmandu, 23rd July (I think). Taken from a taxi at 7am on the way to the truck park for departure to Bardia National Park. I'm still drunk.
Another shot of Durbar Square. Since I didn't take a single photo for the entire 2 weeks of my Kathmandu stay, I was trying to make up for it at the last minute.
Hangover breakfast on the truck around 11am. Dhal (spicy lentil), Aloo (spicy potato), spicy chickpea stuff and two rotis. Tasty!
Bush camp en-route to Bardia, Nepal. It was a lovely spot (I think I got the order of events mixed up in the story so I'll change this and sort it all out). Well done Jacko!
Negotiating a mudslide en-route to Bardia. Jacko and John are digging out the corner while Vince, Oskar and mud-loving Jane look on.
A river crossing en-route to Bardia. You can just make out the new bridge being built on the right of the photo. Yes, it was an eventful day and what overlanding is really about!
25th July. And finally, some much enjoyed yoga!
Despite the mozzies which were the most ferocious I've encountered. Africa included.
One of my latest moves - the shoulderstand cycle - transition from shoulderstand to the bridge (a backbend).
Followed by a backbend. Excellent for the back, stomach, internal organs, arms and legs. A great all-rounder really.
And the local pets. Nice but dim.
Half spinal twist, bound.
The charming Racy Shade Resort.
Unwinding with a few beers and the local (ish) instruments. I, on one of my regular and frequent (yes, really) health slots, was on lime soda for the night.
Jan, you trouper! Jan is probably my favourite person on the trip. She's game for anything and always tries even if she's frightened or embarrassed. A real gem.
26th July, am. Photo taken from the moving truck on our departure through Bardia. This is one of the charming local settlements including house, store and animal shelter. It had been raining very heavily (still monsoon).
Our first challenge of the day (apart from the 7am departure in the rain that is). Jacko surveys and assesses the situation. Vince, the tiny figure towards the back of the photo in the middle, is mid-thigh in the water and mud. Amazingly, Jacko decided to go for it. This is a 20-tonne truck we're talking about here.
Looking back over the river we'd just crossed. Jacko the LEGEND.
Border crossing. This building is the official Immigration Office. John and Rob await their Nepali exit stamps.
And we're through! The width of this bridge is about 4 inches wider than the truck. Oncomers beware, Jacko is driving like a demon and taking No Prisoners.
28th July, ungodly hour, packing up what we think is our last bush camp. This is my 'team' taking down the toilet tent. John, Mo and Kat.
Final pack up for a 7am departure. For those of you who think I'm on holiday with leisurely lie-ins, I'm Not.
29th July, ungodly hour again. Turns out THIS is our last 'bush camp'. Next to a highway. And a large 30ft well. At least it had a holy man with a cute calf. And blessedly few onlookers. I actually got a bit of sleep that night, even if just a bit.
So here we all are. Back row from left, Jacko (the Legend), John (the pessimistic but sometimes funny Aussie), Kat (the eternal optimist), Mary (often Contary but, at 63, a real star), Mo (the spirited Irish chick), Jan (the Trouper), Rob (always the first to arrive on the action scene), Lorraine (can't get her words out but I reckon she secretly rides a Harley), Lucinda (another star), Moi (the Strange One that no one can quite work out but she does a lot of yoga), Oskar (the witty and proactive Spaniard who could barely speak English at the start of the trip) and Vince (the ex-navy, ex-fireman housewives' dream. Married to the adorable Jan).
And finally we make it to Mumbai of which I have zero photos having morphed into Nocturnal Urban Socialite for the 4 nights we were there. Okay, by the 4th night I had to slow down as I had a cold threatening to attack. The wise words of the yogi who's book I'm reading says that illness should be treated as an unwanted guest. Guests that are not acknowledged do not stay for long. So I've been practicing this method and refusing to acknowledge that the cold is mine - referring to it as the cold that is threatening and guess what...3 nights later and I'm almost well again. Two of those nights having been spent cooped up on a hot train and the third of which was spent having had a few beers in Kolkata. Okay, I confess to having had another 20-hour sleep marathon but, you guessed it, did an hour-and-a-half of yoga yesterday, ate some lentils and, if it wasn't for the dodgy prawns I had last night, I'd be 100%.
Saturday 2nd August - Settling into the train for the 2 nights and a day journey. This space was shared by another 2 chaps and myself but, all in all, everyone was really considerate (for the most part), the food was good (I love Thali - a sort of platter dish with a veg/chicken curry, dhal, rice and 2 chappatis), the samoosas were tasty and the scenery was interesting, when light and accessible.
Herr Jane, the workhorse, in her bunk on her laptop on the train. There wasn't aircon but there were fans.
Oskar with his book and iPod, Kat taking a nap (kat-nap - geddit?). I had a top bunk with an aerial view. We were right in front of the kitchen car so everytime the train slowed (there were about 42 stops along the way), the heat from the kitchen engulfed us to a sometimes-unbearable degree. Moving around from window to bunk-near-the-fan helped. And, if strategically negotiated, the odd doorway could be occupied for a time. 
Don't spread this one around. I haven't slept for 5 nights, haven't showered or changed my clothes for 3 days and am about to enter the frenzied urban melee that is Kolkata at morning rush-hour. Tired, smelly, looking like shit (with a weird hair-aerial) but happy to have had the 'India-overnight-train' experience and looking forward to the next adventure. Forgot to mention 'fighting off a cold'. Bring it on!
A snapshot of suburban Kolkata - looks just like you thought it would hey! The word painted on the building on the right is 'Abandoned'. These are actually quite upmarket slum-dwellings as they're made of brick and have roofs.
That's all for now until next time folks. Namaste! Reporting again soon from Thailand...Monday, 4 August 2008
Kolkata, India, Monday 4th August 2008
Just arrived in Kolkata at 7am this morning after two nights and a day on a train from Mumbai. The journey was interesting and the train was an experience but more about that later. We're here for two nights before flying over to Bangkok on Wednesday the 6th.
The first thing I wanted to say was thank you so much to my lovely, lovely friends and family. A few days ago I received a stack of wonderful emails, some with gorgeous photos, and they brought a smile to my face and a shimmer to my eyes. All this just added to the 'magic' of India and the enjoyment of Mumbai, which I loved. I am thinking of you all and will reply to each in due course.
After leaving Kathmandu (photos to follow) at an eye-watering 7am, having been partaking of a tipple or two with my lovely hosts at the Courtyard Hotel, we drove for about 13 hours West towards, well, western Nepal where Royal Bardia National Park is located. Bardia is the less popular but more rustic between it and Chitwan because of its out-of-the-way location. The housing is traditional reed and mud with thatched roofs and the industry is farming and cottage. It's an exeptionally charming place and worth the arduous journey it took to get there. We spent 2 nights at Hotel Racy Shade and one full day, half of which I spent sleeping and the other half doing yoga, eating and chatting - photos to follow. Some people went on a gentle river cruise, birdwatching, and others went trekking in the steamy jungle.
On Saturday the 26th July we headed out in a monsoonal downpour towards the border for India. We were intending to bush camp for 3 nights, spending 2 nights at Ellora Cave Temples, and then reaching Mumbai on 1st August for 2 nights. Alas, it wasn't to be! Day 1 on the road was quite interesting. It was pretty slow going getting out of the park and Western Nepal in particular is badly affected by the monsoon with main thoroughfares being impassable or washed away. This wasn't something to deter Jacko and the 'Beast'! I have rock-solid faith in the man's judgement about what we can and can't get through with the truck. I reluctantly admit here that on two separate occasions on that day, I thought 'no way'. The truck is just too heavy and the river ahead too wide/muddy/unstable. I have some photos of these occasions which I'll upload. Naturally they don't show the full extent of the width/muddiness/instability of said impasses but they give a fair idea. The man is a Legend. And the truck did us proud.
En-route we met Odyssey overlanders (whom we had previously met in Goreme, Turkey) in a borrowed Dragoman truck heading in the opposite direction to Bardia. They were then going to Kathmandu to fly on to Bangkok from there. The news on the road is that Oasis (another overlanding company) had pulled the plug on their trip. We were able to share the goss about OzBus and their breakdown / driver fallout and apparently they've had a lot of bad press. So good luck to the Odyssey guys and South African drivers and crew.
After crossing the border at a remote and rural post called Banbassa/Bambasa (depending on whether you read the Lonely Planet or the sign post), we re-entered India. The first night we 'bush' camped. It was awful and I really didn't like it. I was on cook group which was not a problem at all and I had psyched myself up for just getting on with it as one must do. It was being the object of a freak-show that freaked me out. We pulled up at a disused garage forecourt at about 8pm after having been on the road a good 13 hours and started setting up camp. We busied ourselves chopping vegetables as veg curry and rice was on the menu. I manned the cooking pot. I looked up from my sweaty, unpleasantly hot, insect-attacked task to see a swarm (aarghh....what's the collective for a large group of native Indians - I should probably Google this bit) of...er...native Indians. Gaggling excitedly, taking photos with mobile phones and pressing disconcertedly closer to our busy little group, hemming us in behind the table between the table and the side of the truck. This bit is what freaked me out. There were about 50 or 60 of these guys, pressing closer and closer. I was getting more and more agitated with a combination of the hot cooking pot, the hot lights behind my head, the running between-the-shoulderblades and down-the-sternum sweat, the constant bombardment of flying insects down the back of my shirt and this encroaching crowd of excited people, trapping me. It makes me feel uncomfortable to recall the situation.
Nevertheless, food was (semi) cooked - I had an altercation with John about the potatoes as no one could grasp that fact that they need a LOT more cooking than a few fresh veggies with curry sauce in-a-jar, hey ho - and served up. Tents were pitched and I decided that the safest place to sleep was on the truck. Our audience was swelling and mutating as more people arrived and different vehicles kept turning up and shining their lights at us. I had a brief and extremely welcome respite in the shower tent over a bucket of water with a cup before retiring to the sweltering truck to try and get some sleep. Needless to say, it was a sleepless night. The borrowed Therma-rest (I'd sent mine on to Oz from Kathmandu) deflated, leaving my hips pressing painfully into the beer-crate in the aisle across which I was lying, under the tables near the back. The mosquitoes arrived in force - biting and buzzing - and it was incredibly hot and airless.
I'll end temporarily here as we're all meeting at The Blue Sky Cafe shortly for dinner and I want to catch up with everyone to make some plans for tomorrow. I intend to have a restful day tomorrow (I'm fending off and impending cold) and catch up with my blogging and some admin so, unforseen events notwithstanding, watch out for the next exciting tomorrow. Or the day after. And I'll try to get some photos up too. TTFN.
The first thing I wanted to say was thank you so much to my lovely, lovely friends and family. A few days ago I received a stack of wonderful emails, some with gorgeous photos, and they brought a smile to my face and a shimmer to my eyes. All this just added to the 'magic' of India and the enjoyment of Mumbai, which I loved. I am thinking of you all and will reply to each in due course.
After leaving Kathmandu (photos to follow) at an eye-watering 7am, having been partaking of a tipple or two with my lovely hosts at the Courtyard Hotel, we drove for about 13 hours West towards, well, western Nepal where Royal Bardia National Park is located. Bardia is the less popular but more rustic between it and Chitwan because of its out-of-the-way location. The housing is traditional reed and mud with thatched roofs and the industry is farming and cottage. It's an exeptionally charming place and worth the arduous journey it took to get there. We spent 2 nights at Hotel Racy Shade and one full day, half of which I spent sleeping and the other half doing yoga, eating and chatting - photos to follow. Some people went on a gentle river cruise, birdwatching, and others went trekking in the steamy jungle.
On Saturday the 26th July we headed out in a monsoonal downpour towards the border for India. We were intending to bush camp for 3 nights, spending 2 nights at Ellora Cave Temples, and then reaching Mumbai on 1st August for 2 nights. Alas, it wasn't to be! Day 1 on the road was quite interesting. It was pretty slow going getting out of the park and Western Nepal in particular is badly affected by the monsoon with main thoroughfares being impassable or washed away. This wasn't something to deter Jacko and the 'Beast'! I have rock-solid faith in the man's judgement about what we can and can't get through with the truck. I reluctantly admit here that on two separate occasions on that day, I thought 'no way'. The truck is just too heavy and the river ahead too wide/muddy/unstable. I have some photos of these occasions which I'll upload. Naturally they don't show the full extent of the width/muddiness/instability of said impasses but they give a fair idea. The man is a Legend. And the truck did us proud.
En-route we met Odyssey overlanders (whom we had previously met in Goreme, Turkey) in a borrowed Dragoman truck heading in the opposite direction to Bardia. They were then going to Kathmandu to fly on to Bangkok from there. The news on the road is that Oasis (another overlanding company) had pulled the plug on their trip. We were able to share the goss about OzBus and their breakdown / driver fallout and apparently they've had a lot of bad press. So good luck to the Odyssey guys and South African drivers and crew.
After crossing the border at a remote and rural post called Banbassa/Bambasa (depending on whether you read the Lonely Planet or the sign post), we re-entered India. The first night we 'bush' camped. It was awful and I really didn't like it. I was on cook group which was not a problem at all and I had psyched myself up for just getting on with it as one must do. It was being the object of a freak-show that freaked me out. We pulled up at a disused garage forecourt at about 8pm after having been on the road a good 13 hours and started setting up camp. We busied ourselves chopping vegetables as veg curry and rice was on the menu. I manned the cooking pot. I looked up from my sweaty, unpleasantly hot, insect-attacked task to see a swarm (aarghh....what's the collective for a large group of native Indians - I should probably Google this bit) of...er...native Indians. Gaggling excitedly, taking photos with mobile phones and pressing disconcertedly closer to our busy little group, hemming us in behind the table between the table and the side of the truck. This bit is what freaked me out. There were about 50 or 60 of these guys, pressing closer and closer. I was getting more and more agitated with a combination of the hot cooking pot, the hot lights behind my head, the running between-the-shoulderblades and down-the-sternum sweat, the constant bombardment of flying insects down the back of my shirt and this encroaching crowd of excited people, trapping me. It makes me feel uncomfortable to recall the situation.
Nevertheless, food was (semi) cooked - I had an altercation with John about the potatoes as no one could grasp that fact that they need a LOT more cooking than a few fresh veggies with curry sauce in-a-jar, hey ho - and served up. Tents were pitched and I decided that the safest place to sleep was on the truck. Our audience was swelling and mutating as more people arrived and different vehicles kept turning up and shining their lights at us. I had a brief and extremely welcome respite in the shower tent over a bucket of water with a cup before retiring to the sweltering truck to try and get some sleep. Needless to say, it was a sleepless night. The borrowed Therma-rest (I'd sent mine on to Oz from Kathmandu) deflated, leaving my hips pressing painfully into the beer-crate in the aisle across which I was lying, under the tables near the back. The mosquitoes arrived in force - biting and buzzing - and it was incredibly hot and airless.
I'll end temporarily here as we're all meeting at The Blue Sky Cafe shortly for dinner and I want to catch up with everyone to make some plans for tomorrow. I intend to have a restful day tomorrow (I'm fending off and impending cold) and catch up with my blogging and some admin so, unforseen events notwithstanding, watch out for the next exciting tomorrow. Or the day after. And I'll try to get some photos up too. TTFN.
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