Adventures in Lyndaland: 2008

Hey there everybody! I'm back in Bangkok and before anyone (Mum) panics, everything is fine here. The trouble is over, the airport is open and there is no sign of danger. At all. Anywhere.

This won't be a wordy entry today as I'm determined to get my photos up to date on here. Briefly though, here's the update...

Got to Krabi okay (Southwest (Andaman) coast) and went over to the GORGEOUS beach of Tonsai. Very chilled out place full of lots of laid back people. No traffic, accessible only by boat and no hawkers allowed. Waiter service is terrible as they're all stoned all of the time but it's so chilled out that you don't really mind reminding them to bring your order, half an hour after they've forgotten. Met some lovely people and went on an 'adventure' day which involved lots of climbing - 6 in all I think - followed by a climb up inside a cave to a lookout point high above the beach. From here we abseiled down and walked back along the beach where, of course, beer was had. What a great day. Beautiful, exciting, challenging and rewarding.

The next day I woke up and couldn't move (Mum, please don't panic!). I had a fever so I stayed in bed for a couple of days and on day 3 it was my birthday. There was no way I was staying in bed on my birthday and it turned out that my mates, Naaz, Claire, Ruth et al, were on nearby Koh Phi Phi. An island about an hour and a half from Tonsai. So, on the 22nd November, I got the 9am boat over to Phi Phi and had a lovely reunion with the girls. Luckily I was feeling a bit better so we all went out for dinner (pics below) and out for the night. Believe it or not, I didn't drink a drop of alcohol - must be my first teetotal birthday ever - but still had a great time. The next day my fever had returned (um....did I say this wasn't going to be a wordy one?!) and luckily there was a great hospital nearby. Naaz kindly walked there with me where I was diagnosed with a fever and, despite drinking loads of water and taking electrolytes daily, dehydration. The lovely nurse gave my some antibiotics and I went back the next day for a saline IV after which I started to feel much better very quickly.

So what followed was a week of fabulous balcony parties, nights out at various bars ending up dancing on the beach 'til the wee hours. Oh, and on one day we took a boat out to 'The Beach' beach, called Maya beach. If you've seen the film, you may recognise the photos. Simply more gorgeousness on top of the gorgeousness that is Thailand. I still can't believe that I'm actually here sometimes. I see fabulous pictures of stunning beaches and go 'Oh my God...I've been there!' It's great.

But it hasn't all been haha heehee though. I had a huge amount of money fraudulently stolen from my bank account so I've had to cancel my bank card. This was a real headache (on top of the headache I had at the time from my fever) and I'm still trying to sort it out with the bank. This is where True Friends come in. Tim, one of my best friends back in the UK (we were at university together) was an absolute diamond in a crisis. He very generously wired me some money without hesitation and has allowed me to use his address in the UK to get replacement cards etcetera posted to. He really bailed me out when I was really stuck. A million thanks to you, Tim! I owe you one.

So, I was able to get back up to Bangkok on the 5th December in time to meet Johnny who was flying back from Nepal on that day. He'd been trekking there, doing the Anapurna Circuit, with his mate. Johnny and I have since been hanging out (we're going to see the new James Bond movie tonight) and making plans. Today we booked a flight to Jakarta, Indonesia for Tuesday the 9th. When we get to Jakarta airport we'll book the next flight to Bali, hopefully on the 10th. Naaz, Djemal and Becks (in photos below) are also there and the balcony parties have already commenced.

This is where the future has yet to be decided by The Powers That Be. Within the next week I'll know what's happened to the money that was stolen from my bank account which was basically the remainder of my travel fund and was meant to last for another 3 months or so. It was also meant to be used for living on when I get to Australia while I look for a job. If the bank refund it (which they may not do - long story), then I'll postpone my flight to Melbourne, currently booked for the 19th, and carry on travelling for another month or so. If they don't refund the money then I need to get my ass to Australia asap and get a job. A little bit of a scary prospect as I can't get a work visa (you have to be under 30) and will need to get a company to sponsor me. This means that I'll have to fall back on my old career and put the yoga teaching plans on ice for the forseeable future. However, I'm optimistic (as always!) and am hoping that the work ethic in Australia will suit me better than the work ethic in the UK did. I'll still keep doing lots of yoga and continue working towards my teacher training regardless of whether or not I end up using it as a new career. We'll see.

Without further ado, I'll leave you now to feast your eyes on the beauty of Southern Thailand and become acquainted with some of my new, fabulous friends. Coming live to you soon from a beach in Bali where I plan on learning to surf. Bye for now!

Krabi from the sea.

Climbing in Railay. Mum, see the harness. See the safety rope. 100% safe. I promise!

Walking over Pharang (I think it's called) beach for the afternoon climbs. Probably the most scenic beach in the whole of Thailand.

View from up the rock. I'm now able to look around at the top of the climb without crying out in fear. Or crying. I can even take pictures and enjoy the view. Go Lynda, Go!

Another view from up the rock.

And here's my lovely climbing team.

Believe it or not, this little kid is 15 years old, has been climbing for a mere 2 weeks and is able to lead climb (take the rope up the rock and tie it at the top) a grade 5B climb. Unbelievable!

And this is the fabulous view from the lookout point over Railay beach (to the right of the photo) and Tonsai beach to the left.

Look Ma, no hands! (But very safe, I promise)

Out celebrating my birthday with the girls in Phi Phi. Lovely to be back with them again.

And it's the birthday girl.

Fully recovered from the fever and some bucket catching up to do on the balcony with Djemal.

Work it baby, work it!

Djemal asleep on the beach in all his glory.

Time to get silly. Again.

View from Koh Phi Phi over to Phi Phi Ley. Phi Phi Ley is the baby sister of Phi Phi Don. You can see it in the distance (the W shaped island). That's where Maya Beach is - where 'The Beach' was filmed.

And the balcony parties warm up.

Phi Phi Ley on our day trip to 'The Beach'.

View of 'The Beach'. Looks just like the movie and every bit as breathtaking in real life.

Back on Koh Phi Phi don where we walked up to this viewpoint for sunset.

Let's get this balcony party started!

'Long Legs' Becks and I.

The balcony crew. Claire, Ruth, English Becks, Djemal, me, Kevin, Bertine, Josh (aka Doctor Colin) and Dutch Becks. Don't know who the random bloke is in the front. A wannabe balcony crew member no doubt.

Dutch Becks and I on our way back to Krabi. Becks went to Tonsai on my recommendation while I was on my way up to Bangkok.

And back in Bangkok, yesterday, reunited with Johnny and doing a bit of sight-seeing on the river. Life is Good. I LOVE IT!

Here I am once again in Southern Thailand, on the West Coast this time in a very scenic place called Krabi. But before I tell you what I'm doing here, let me tell you about the remarkable events of the last few days...

I left the 4,000 islands, Laos on the 13th November on a 21 hour journey to Bangkok via bus, boat, taxi and train. The overnight train was amazing. It was comfortable, spacious and clean. Fresh sheets, pillows and wrapped blankets were provided and the beds were made up soon after setting off. I bumped into (well, actually gate-crashed the taxi of) a chap called Dave whom I'd met tubing. I'd forgotten who he was but he remembered Cecil. Everyone does. So I had some company for beerChanging enroute before climbing into my womb-like little compartment and shutting the curtains on the passing world for the night. I then had the uniquely pleasant experience of arriving in Bangkok, early in the morning, rested and wide awake after an excellent nights sleep. I felt so good that I considered continuing on, down South. I didn't really want to spend time in Bangkok. Especially when the alternative is a beach in paradise. With a train leaving in 15 minutes. No, this isn't the remarkable part of the story. Not yet.

So I continued on for what became a tedious journey and arrived, tired and a more than a little grouchy, in an unattractive through-town called Surat Thani where I strongly suspect the main trade is the oldest profession, cheap hotels and travel agents. I got a room, some food and went to bed. Not quite the islands but hey, what's another day on the road. It'll all be worth it tomorrow.

The next day I tried to withdraw money and my card was rejected. I tried again. Rejection. I went into a bank. Smiling rejection. Shit. No cash and stuck in a horrible place. Alone (Dave stayed in Bangkok). I counted my cash and had 150 Baht. About 3 quid. Not enough for a room for another night and not enough for the 250 Baht bus ticket to Krabi, the dreamed-of island destination, fading fast. Putting aside thoughts of what I didn't have (money for food, a place to sleep, no means of transport), I focused on what I did have. A tawdry but spacious hotel room for another 2 hours, time to kill while I awaited responses to my SOS emails, 150 Baht, a shower and half a bottle of water. So, in a bid to deflect the onsetting panic and to kill some time, I unrolled my mat and did yoga.

As well as easing out the travel aches, it cleared my mind and calmed my nerves. I took a shower, packed my bag and checked out. I had come to two conclusions. One, that I'd have to sleep under the stars and two, knowing this, I'd prefer to do it on a beach than on the street. There was no way I was staying in Surat Thani. I had to get to Krabi.

Feeling positive, I determinedly set off for the bus stop which was thankfully nearby. My mission: to get on the 250 Baht bus with 150 Baht. No, wait, I stopped and put 50 Baht into my reserve pocket in case of emergency...I'd have to do it with 100 Baht.

I approached the waiting empty bus with a congenial smile which I beamed at the nearest approaching person who enthusiastically relieved me of my backpack for storage while I pulled out my 100 Baht note and explained that it was all I had and that I needed to get to Krabi. 'No money for food, no money for water, please can I go to Krabi?' At which point he recoiled instantly, released my backpack as though it burned and pointedly ignored me.

I was left, standing on the pavement like a fool with the note flapping impotently from my outstretched hand. Aaaand breathe! After a few minutes, a fierce looking woman from the bus operatives' clique approached and asked the same question. 'Where you go?' To which I gave the same answer and promtly received the same disgusted response, leaving me smiling dejectedly at her retreating back.

After a few more minutes (no, I hadn't moved, yes, my pride was in tatters and I was getting desperate), the bus driver approached with the same terse question. To which I gave my, by now pleading response, fully expecting a repeat performance. 'Get on the bus.' He demanded. I stood there like a post. 'Get on the bus.' I realised that I had in fact heard correctly and I wasn't waiting for him to change his mind. I practically dropped my rucksack, shoved the note at him and launched into the bus.

This is where the remarkable stuff started to happen. As I was gazing at the pavement scene of the bus posse, the kind bus driver beckoned to me and pointed at some bananas on a stall. I shook my head and he beckoned more insistently. Well, considering I had zero pride by this stage and was in no position to refuse charity, I hopped off the bus and gratefully received the 3 small bananas that he offered me. He told me to take a bottle of water and when I reminded him that I had no money, he insisted and said he'd pay. I couldn't believe my luck, and as I'd been mildly concerned about enduring a 4-hour bus journey in the Asian tropical afternoon heat with nothing to drink, I quickly took a bottle of the cheapest water, thanked him repeatedly and hurried back to my coveted seat on the bus. After about an hour, the bus filled up and I was on my way to Krabi with a blessed 50 Baht in my pocket, 3 bananas and a bottle of water.

After a time, the surly lady, who turned out to be the bus conductor, started menacingly up the aisle with her ticket machine, efficiently collecting money and doling out tickets. I'm slightly ashamed of the next bit. I thought she'd get to me, deny that I'd paid, demand money which she knew I didn't have and then leave me at the edge of the next gumtree plantation.

My heart was in my mouth as she transacted with the Thai lady sitting next to me before moving swiftly on to those seated behind. As I breathed a sigh of relief, the Thai lady next to me tapped my arm and when I looked at her she started jabbing a 100 Baht note into my palm. How the hell did she know that I was broke? And what incredible kindness did she have to respond to my predicament by giving a total stranger money? I was confused, grateful, emotional and a little bit overcome. I allowed her to press the money into my closing fist and it was quite a while before I connected the crumpled note in my sweaty grip to the matronly bus conductor. She'd returned my fare. What a gem!

I alighted at Krabi town better fed, watered and moneyed than when I got on the bus! I thanked the universe as it was late, dark, I was tired and hungry and I still had a 100 Baht onward transfer to the seaside resort town of Ao Nang. I pulled the 50 Baht emergency note out of my reserve pocket and treated the tuk-tuk driver to the same performance given to the bus posse earlier that day. This time I was keeping the 100 Baht for emergency. My fortune was rising. He agreed and I swung into the tuk-tuk along with half a dozen other travellers where we started the usual friendly 'where are you from/going?' round of conversations. I said that I didn't know where I was going as I had no money and was more than likely heading for a night on the beach. Twenty minutes later we were deposited in a foreigner-friendly little strip perpendicular to the beach and lit with welcoming looking signs beckoning holidaymakers to enjoy tasty meals and aircon rooms. Thank God I didn't stay in Surat Thani.

I tried to inconspicuously stick to a couple of my newest friends, Matt (Australian) and Andrew (English) while lightheartedly offering to relieve them of their floor-space. Matt, one of the kindest souls on the planet, asked if I had any money for food and offered to lend me some if I didn't. After a couple of unsuccessful tries, we were swept into a guesthouse with offers of 'cheap room'. The room had two beds so we asked if we could have a mattress on the floor. They agreed and one was hastily provided. Matt gave me a generous loan and we went to a street stall for pad thai and a beer. After which I was able to Skype my bank, get my card unlocked and withdraw as much cash as my daily limit would allow. What a relief! I celebrated with an overpriced Singapore Sling and went to bed in my mattress on the floor.

So that pretty much brings you up to date. I'm in one of the loveliest parts of the loveliest countries in the world and happy as a puppy. I spent the entire day on a gorgeous beach moving as little as possible and positively basking in my good fortune. Krabi is a mecca for active travellers and offers everything from scuba diving to rock climbing. Rock climbing is potentially my new pursuit. I had climbed a bit in the UK, indoors, and had my first outdoor climbing experience in Laos recently (photos below). I was terrified and exhilarated so naturally I want to do more. After a few more days of basking in pleasure and sunshine, I'll head over to a nearby beach called Ton Sai which is climbing central and sign up.

Right, I've arranged to meet Matt and Andrew in the Irish bar so I'd better go. Photos from the second round of slow-boat and tubing are below. Joined by some of my new sport, rock climbing. Bye for now.

The girls and I on the ferry crossing to the border between Thailand and Laos en-route to the slow-boat up the Mekong and into Laos.

Doing it the slowboat style.

The most comfortable seat in the house. On sacks of rice.

Cecil at the waterfall in Luang Prabang. He loved it!

Remember this pool? Revisited. With Johnny and Cecil.

Exploring in Vang Vieng.

Check out this scenery. Stunning!

And the sunsets. Gorgeous.

Post-tubing stragglers. One of us is sober...you'd never guess, but it's me! Only because I was going climbing the next day.

Not so sober any more though. Naaz, Claire, Ruthie and Paul.

This is the gorgeous guesthouse where Johnny and I stayed. This is the deck that overlooks the river with the beautiful mountains beyond. We ended up staying there for 9 days and it's my favourite guesthouse in the world. The food was out of this world.